A version of this was published in the Sunday magazine of the Daily Times on 26th May 2013

International Extreme Skiers on the slopes of the Karakoram, Northern Pakistan

A few weeks ago CNN did a report on Pakistan. No terrorists or bombers were involved. Instead the story was an international Heliski event in Gilgit Baltistan, with an international team of Heliskiers - one whom was Pakistani. Not only that, the sole Pakistani was actually a woman, the stunning Samyra Rashid of Walkabout Films.

Samyra Rashid of Walkabout Films

The word Heli-skiing immediately conjures up images of James Bond leaping from helicopters and whizzing though pristine snow but actually Heliskiing is a very controlled and well-managed extreme sport. It has to be. Using helicopters to reach remote mountain ranges to ski long runs down uncharted slopes that carry a not-insignificant avalanche risk is not an activity to be taken lightly.

The sport requires specialist equipment such as avalanche transceivers, probes and beacons. You need specialist guides who can scout the best slopes for Heliskiing and assess avalanche risk. It doesn’t require any infrastructure, just some spectacular terrain. Just as well because while Pakistan has some of the world’s most untouched and challenging slopes, it is lamentably short of chair lifts, après ski facilities and hotels near the slopes.

Pakistani Army Helicopters assisted the Karakorum Heliski

The sport of course needs helicopters, which meant the project would have been impossible without the backing of ISPR (Inter Services Public Relations), which provided army helicopters for the week long event. Its worth bearing in mind this was done without wasting public resources as training flights were simply diverted to this task and in the process army pilots were able to practice drop-off techniques in a variety of terrain.

The team of Heliskiers included enthusiasts from France, Russia, Serbia, Canada and Switzerland. Brice Lequetier, the team leader and a champion skier from France was full of praise for the experience of skiing in Pakistan:
“The feeling when you stand on top of mountain is of freedom and amazement, and of feeling very little, and the bigger the mountain the littler you feel. The Himalayas and the Karakoram especially being so young, so rugged, so special, makes you feel lucky and blessed…”

International heli-skiers with Pakistan Aviation Squadron members and local boys

Heliski 101 What is it? Taking a helicopter to a top of a mountain and skiing back down. So you jump out of a helicopter and ski? No these people are thrill-seekers, not death-seekers. You've watched James Bond once too often. The helicopter lands to let them disembark. Why? For the same reason people hurl themselves off cliffs and swim with sharks. Heliskiing takes you to unpredictable conditions and uncharted terrain. Some people apparently find it thrilling rather than terrifying. Why Pakistan? We've got unbelievably high mountains, pristine slopes and no other way to ski them. Do say - what a boost for tourism in the Northern Areas Don't say - ever thought of the carbon footprint you're leaving?

He also praised the Pakistan Army pilots: “Flying with the Pakistani army pilots was a great, great encounter and great surprise….we clicked from the first second…and this thing just rolled perfectly.”
The Pakistanis also found these Heliski enthusiasts a pleasure to work with. These are people who have skied all over the world, in places with the best possible facilities and yet they were happy to camp in basic conditions and were warm and enthusiastic about everything they encountered.

Samyra Rashid who skied with them was particularly struck by their down-to-earth attitude and the zest with which they approached everything from the slopes to the Forts and markets of Gilgit Baltistan.

The skiers tackled various slopes over six days. Each day brought new challenges with uncharted terrain and difficult conditions. Not exactly my idea of a great time but these extreme skiers loved it. Samyra Rashid who has skied everywhere from the Alps to the Rockies said that nothing could compare. “The scale of these mountains is simply mind-blowing!”

Shot in Pakistan, the film Snow Leopards : Beyond the Myth has won awards

The 2013 Karakoram Heliski was the brainchild of award-winning Pakistani film-maker Nisar Malik of Walkabout films. Talented and passionate, Nisar Malik is a dedicated conservationist and master film-maker. His film about one of Pakistan’s most reclusive and endangered species “Snow Leopards: Beyond the Myth” has won awards and acclaim worldwide. Walkabout films documentaries about Pakistan’s spectacular natural history have aired on the BBC, Discovery and National Geographic.
It is Nisar Malik’s passion and

vision that brought diverse partners like the ISPR, PIA and Shangri-La resorts come together to provide services in kind to make the event possible. It was his friendships with extreme skiers that saw them bringing in all the specialist equipment and guides to facilitate the event.

Nisar Malik of Walkabout Films

Nisar Malik is no stranger to extreme sports. In 2003 he wind-surfed the three highest lakes in Pakistan. In 2006, after the Winter Olympics, he organized an event “Kite and Flight” where star skiers came to Pakistan. At that time the skiers used kites to lift them to the tops of runs and skied down. While this makes Nisar Malik sound somewhat of a Pakistani “Action Man”, actually his first love is nature and conservation. He has worked extensively filming in the northern areas and in doing so has assisted in the development of remote areas of Pakistan. He is passionate about the natural history of Pakistan; its scenery, its flora and its fauna, and says, “We shouldn’t compare ourselves to anywhere else. It’s not ‘like Switzerland’ – it’s Pakistan and there is nothing like this on the planet.”
With his beautifully shot films he aims to share his knowledge of the beauty of Pakistan. He strongly believes its an asset we do not use.

The natural beauty of Pakistan

He explained how “Kite and Flight” required more specialist equipment and expertise than is easily manageable. Heliskiing on the other hand is a growing tourist sport, particularly in Canada and the US where the helicopter is used as an alternative to the chair-lift. Little or no hiking is involved unlike in Europe. With its untouched slopes and spectacular landscape Pakistan has the potential to become a real tourist destination for heliskiing. For the present, however, this remains a distant dream. While the Karakorum Heliski was a huge step forward and put Pakistan on the Heliski map, a great deal remains to be done.

Pakistan has great potential as an adventure tourism destination

It saddens Nisar Malik that it is so hard to find funding for projects like the Heliski and nature films. People will spend 2 crores on a 30 second advertisement. A nature film that takes one to two years to film can be made in the same budget and yet the nature film will have to work much harder to raise funds.

The common leopard - next for Walkabout Films

So what’s next for Walkabout Films? Pakistan Pure Discovery, a Joint Venture between ISPR (Inter Services Public Relations) and Walkabout Films is planning more extreme sports projects with a view to promoting the development of mountain sports and tourism in the northern regions. Meanwhile Walkabout films is working on filming the common leopard in Nathiagalli. They are also filming brown bears near Skardu in Geofai. Almost by the by, Nisar Malik explains how fai means giants and Geo means land so Geofai means Land of Giants. It immediately painted a picture in my head and I realized why his films are so successful. The man has a talent for storytelling. It’s a fabulous attribute for someone who is so anxious to communicate his passion for Pakistan. Pakistan should be proud of him – he certainly makes us proud of our country.

Published in the Express Tribune 29th May 2013

Maheen Khan FPW 5

Fashion Pakistan Council has been under fire recently, with former CEO Amir Adnan joining PFDC and unfavourable comparisons between Fashion Pakistan Week (FPW) and PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week (PSFW). So are designers disillusioned with FPC and is the council a spent force? Nothing could be further from the truth.

The self-same designers from Karachi who contributed to making PSFW such a success this year confirmed that they have had very positive experiences showing at FPW. Shamaeel Ansari says that it’s ridiculous for people to talk about the demise of the council. “You have to consider all our events over the years,” says Ansari. “In April last year our fashion week was by far the strongest of the season. It makes business sense for our members who have already shown here [Karachi] to go to Lahore this time round and we encouraged it.” Designers Nida Azwer and Shehla Chatoor confirmed that they would have shown at FPW if it had not been so close to PSFW.

Sania Maskatiya

“From a business point of view, it’s very important to show in Lahore and Karachi,” says Umair Tabani of Sania Maskatiya. “They are both huge target markets.”

With Karachi as its home ground, FPC is the natural choice for shows in Karachi. We should expect different things from fashion weeks in Lahore and Karachi, as fashion weeks will always reflect the ethos of the city. After all New York Fashion Week is very different from London Fashion Week.

Models with Maheen Khan, Deepak Perwani, Shehla Chatoor at FPW4

This time around FPC suffered because of the unsettled security situation in Karachi. In spite of this background, FPC put together a very creditable event that was covered by the Wall Street Journal and Vogue India. Their partnership with Hum TV ensures excellent coverage for designers within Pakistan. Adding to that, FPC’s hook-up with the Style 360-Labels e-store opened up international markets for designers who showed at FPW.

Nevertheless, the fact remains that the line-up at FPW this time was not as good as it should have been. Designer Maheen Khan concedes that the content editing should have been tighter at FPW and that perhaps some of those selected were not ready for the ramp. However, as Ansari points out, there is a learning curve for new designers and even good designers sometimes fall flat on their faces at fashion weeks. It’s necessary to give talented new designers a chance at high-end platforms and inevitably some will not manage to rise to the occasion. They will, however, learn from the process and come back stronger if they are genuinely talented. There is some truth in this observation by Ansari, but FPC needs to strike a better balance between emerging talent and established designers.

Both Khan and Ansari insist they have very cordial relationships with Sehyr Saigol and are happy to collaborate with PFDC at any time. They encourage their members to show at PFDC and welcome members of PFDC to show at their events. They have even proposed that the two councils work together to promote fashion weeks, one in Karachi and one in Lahore — providing each other with logistical and other support.

“It’s time to stop this petty Lahore-Karachi comparison,” says Maheen Khan. “We need to think nationally as an industry. We are one nation and I feel these divisive reports are detrimental to the fashion industry as a whole.” She also stresses, “FPC has always, first and foremost, been about the business of fashion.”

Nida Azwer's Collection from FPW 2

FPC undoubtedly works hard for its members in this respect. Twice a year it takes contingents of designers for a show at the Panglian Club in Singapore, which has helped many of its members develop a client base in Singapore. It collaborated with the Pakistan Trade Development Authority to send members to the Pakistan Expo in Delhi. Similarly, the council also collaborated with Pakistan Fashion Week in London, getting concessional rates for its designers to participate.
In the last few years Ansari has revamped and properly structured the business and legal side of the council. Meanwhile a stellar generation of designers has come of age. Designers like Nida Azwer and Sania Maskatiya have immense affection for and commitment towards FPC.

“I have had a lot of support from council members and have learnt a lot from them,” says designer Maheen Karim. Ansari reveals that she has confirmations from Tabani, Chatoor and Karim that they will be extended board members for the next event. This new generation has the potential to add fresh skills that will complement those of the original team. The future looks very bright indeed for FPC.

Why you should watch Yeh Jawani Hai Deewani

Published in the Express Tribune on 2nd June 2013

The romantic comedy is frothy and entertaining

At first glance, Yeh Jawaani Hai Deewani (YJHD) seems formulaic and a mish-mash of other Karan Johar films — a bespectacled goody-two-shoes girl, a fun loving guy who’s a bit of player and a seminal trip. The tomboy who can’t express her love, the big fat Indian wedding and the guy pulling the girl onto a train — we’ve seen it all before.

However, writer and director Ayan Mukerji gives this romantic comedy a deft twist and a thoroughly modern treatment. The result is a frothy, feel-good, marvelously entertaining film.
The story revolves around the couple Bunny and Naina, played by Ranbir Kapoor and Deepika Padukone, respectively. Kapoor’s character is more than just a footloose player; he is passionate, hardworking and dedicated to his dreams, which makes his connection with the serious Naina believable and unaffected.

As an actor, Kapoor just gets better and better. This film is no Rockstar or Barfi! for him to get his teeth into, yet he simply shines on the screen. He is funny and endearing and depicts Bunny’s coming of age with skill. More than that, YJHD shows what a great entertainer Kapoor is. Whether it’s dancing with Madhuri or sizzling on screen with Padukone, he delivers big time.
Padukone also excels in YJHD and shows what a versatile actor she is. She is as convincing as the seedhi-saadhi Naina as she was as wild-child Veronica in Cocktail. Her portrayal of Naina is well-nuanced and attractive. The chemistry between her and Kapoor is palpable and their performance takes the film to another level.

Kalki Koechlin also deserves praise for her stellar performance in a role that could have been very bland. Koechlin lifts her character Aditi from the realms of the ordinary with a feisty, insightful performance. Farooq Sheikh is poignant in his small role as Bunny’s father.
Aditya Roy Kapoor, on the other hand, fails to impress. He seems doomed to drink his way across the screen this summer. He played one sharabi in Aashiqui 2 and plays another in YJHD. He seems unable to do much with his one-dimensional character Avi, and the entire storyline of his friction with Bunny seems rather contrived and awkward.
YJHD nevertheless has a lot going for it. Mukerji delivers on the promise he showed with Wake Up Sid. The story is cleverly handled; there is some deft dialogue and several laugh-out-loud moments. There is an outstanding chase scene and a cute cameo from Kunal Roy Kapoor. Bunny and Naina’s interchange on travel versus home is exceptional; a Broadway Show is compared to Dilwale Dulhania Le Jayenge at Maratha Mandir — with popcorn.

Balam Pichkari........

YJHD has all the great locations and visual appeal you would expect from a Johar production. The songs, too, are very well-choreographed and set the screen alight. Madhuri’s dazzling item number, Ghaghra, in the first 10 minutes shows that she still has what it takes. Her face may show a little of the ravages of time but otherwise, she looks hot and demonstrates yet again what an amazing dancer she is. Kapoor’s brilliantly choreographed Badtameez Dil and the superb Balam Pichkari are standout songs. It’s worth going to the cinema again just to see these and Madhuri’s Ghagra once more on the big screen.

Verdict: Overall, YJHD is a great, entertaining film. The themes are not deep but what do you expect from a romantic comedy? There are only so many variations on the boy meets girl story; only so many ways they can overcome obstacles on the path to love. What makes YJHD work are the songs, the great performances from its stars and a story that is not as clichéd as it seems at first glance. YJHD is bound to make you leave the cinema smiling — one of this summer’s must-watch movies.
Rating: 4/5

Pictures courtesy Express Tribune and YJHD Facebook page

The buzzing launch of Nida Azwer Atelier, Karachi

Nida Azwer is on a roll. She's launched her own lawn line, shown at PFDC Sunsilk Fashion week and has now opened two retail outlets in under a month. Following hot on the heels of her first store which is in Lahore, her second outlet opened on Saturday 1st June at the brand new Ocean Mall in Clifton, Karachi.

The tiny boutique feels surprisingly roomy, its predominantly white décor giving the illusion of space . The chic interior by Ahsan Najmi Bilgrami and the team at YOC’A is on a minimalist theme with generous display racks. A futuristic cuboid capsule displaying formal wear adds interest and depth to the store.

This jumpsuit was one of my favourites

One of the bright young things of fashion, Nida launched her label barely six years ago. She's won critical acclaim at fashion weeks in both Karachi and Lahore and is incredibly versatile. From lawn to bridals and everything in between, Nida has proved she's a talented designer.

She launched her ready-to-wear casual wear line The White Label a year ago so this is not her first foray into retail. One of the key selling points of the White Label is that the outfits have a very strong signature and yet are competitively priced. Nida Azwer Atelier goes much further than The White Label, offering a complete range from stitched lawn kurtas to digitally printed and embroidered luxury pret. All the stock in-store bears some of the hallmarks of a Nida Azwer design, be it her quirky block-prints, her intricate embroidery or her luscious digital prints. You can tell they are Nida Azwer outfits at a glance.

Details from luxury pret outfit

Nida has included jumpsuits, wraps and funky cuts for the more adventurous but the majority of her stock has a broad range of appeal. There are tunics from her William Morgan PFDC collection, straight cut cotton kurtas suitable for work and plenty more. The semi-formal collection in particular is bound to be a huge hit on the dinner party scene.

Embroidery detail

The stitched lawn kurtas start at Rs3,000. Block printed cotton kurtas are 4,500 and up which simple digitally printed tunics start at 14,500. The most expensive outfits in-store are lightly embroidered digitally printed outfits on silks, silk net and chiffon. They are priced at Rs32,500 but can easily be worn to an engagement or a formal dinner. The lawn and cotton kurtas are inline with the likes of Khaadi price-wise which is smart retail policy. The semiformal and luxury pret line are in the same ball park as Sania Maskatiya and SanaSafinaz, though Sania is a tad more expensive and SanaSafinaz give more embroidery for the same price. Nida’s outfits however are true to her design sensibility and that is what will appeal to customers.

Nida Azwer Atelier will appeal to the same clientele that has made Sania Maskatiya’s retail outlet such a success. While customers will have to head to Nida’s bridal showroom for couture and bridals, this store has a bright future. Those designers who design well but don’t make their clothes easily available take note. Nida Azwer Atelier offers a huge variety of cleverly priced outfits that scream designer-style - a master-class in retail designer pret.

Published in the blogs section of the Express Tribune on 5th June 2013

Reactions range from anger to hysteria to downright depression. PHOTO: AYESHA MIR/EXPRESS

Every teenager who took Part 1 of his or her O-level exams this year is in a state of shock. The British Council has announced “a breach of security”. Because of a few low cheats, all students will have to retake their Pakistan Studies and Islamiyat Papers in ten days time.

Reactions range from anger to hysteria to downright depression.

Leaks are hardly new. The Matric Board exams are challenged with accusations of cheating every year and there is no doubt that the results from some centres are highly suspect. One senior citizen recalls being woken up by classmates the night before the exam to solve a paper; the paper was worth much more to the cheats if they could sell it with an answer cheat. This was back in the late 1950s.
More recently there are stories of cellphones being used in sophisticated cheating scams.

The problem of leaks is not purely a Pakistani one. In places like Zimbabwe the main local examination board Zimansec has very little credibility due to rampant cheating. The only credible qualifications in Zimbabwe are those from the Cambridge International Examination Board. However, reputable examination boards can also face issues. For example, in April this year an A-level paper was leaked online in the UK. The CIE Board also faced some minor issues in Namibia recently. What is key, however, is that in both these cases swift action was taken to rectify the situation.

The Cambridge Board isn’t immune to problems in Pakistan either. One woman who took A-levels in Islamabad in 1996 recalls that there were issues with the Urdu and English Literature papers being leaked. She remembers being offered the Urdu paper much to her indignation. Swift action was taken back then. In 1996 no retakes were offered but the entire exam center was penalized and practically everyone got a C.

“My friends who were excellent in English got a C in English Literature as did the nalaiq flunkies who had the papers beforehand. These spoilt rotten moneyed boys who never went to class or studied or even knew what books were in the English Literature syllabus got Cs, as did the brightest students.”

The following year there was another leak but this time retakes were offered. It was stressful and difficult for the students but pretty much everyone got the grades they had been predicted.

Another young Pakistani woman who took her A-levels in 2007 recalls than that apparently the Economics paper got leaked. The results were definitely peculiar. Despite an A in her AS level, i.e. the first part of her A-level, she could only manage a B overall. Her friends suffered similar fates. One friend of hers who had scored in the 98th percentile in his AS level incredibly got an overall B after the second paper. It was fairly obvious that the second paper was marked incredibly strictly and perhaps penalties were applied.

While this years students may bemoan having to retake their O-Level exams, surely the prospect is not as bad as getting an undeservedly low grade that stays on your record forever?

It is unclear where the leak took place. The British Council website says “CIE’s investigation into the matter is ongoing, but at this stage they can confirm that the situation was not initiated in Pakistan and that the British Council Pakistan was not party to this compromise in any way.” I’m not sure where else in the world students take Pakistan Studies O-levels, but it’s undoubtedly a peculiar situation.

One of the reasons for choosing the CIE Board exams is their comparatively unblemished reputation. The fact that they are prepared to take extreme action in the face of irregularities is good because it means grades are trustworthy and therefore have more value in the eyes of international universities.

I can understand why the 10^th graders are so upset. If you ever took Cambridge Board Exams, you’ll remember how O-levels are the worst exams of the lot. They are more stressful than A-levels because of the sheer number of subjects involved. You have nine, twelve or maybe even more wildly disparate subjects to study for; with an average of two papers per subject, exam season seems never-ending. Getting over and done with your O1 papers i.e. Urdu, Islamiyat and Pakistan Studies in 10^th grade is a boon.

Having jettisoned Islamiyat and Pakistan Studies from their conscious, the prospect of retakes is undoubtedly horrific for the 10^th Graders. Those who cannot take the exam in ten days have the option of re-taking in November instead but that has its own issues. They will have to take time out from studying for their main O-levels to revise Pakistan Studies and Islamiyat once again. A gap of six months will mean an awful lot more revision will be required in order to be ready for the re-take.
It is a far from ideal situation.

However, if you are one of the victims of those few cheats, if you face having to retake those four papers try to look on the positive side. You’ve revised the course not that long ago. However tough it may be to hit your books again remember everyone is in the same boat. Retakes may be tough but it’s better than getting a downgraded result because of cheating by other people.

A Breath of Sophistication

Published in the Express Tribune on 7th June 2013

New boutique Breathe is an oasis of heavenly scents and pretty diffusers

In search of the perfect gift? Look no further than Breathe, a marvelous little store that has just opened in Defence. Breathe is a home scents and stationery store and simply oozes the concept of aspirational living.

The tiny boutique is a haven of chic — elegant, sophisticated and utterly charming. With its cool black and white décor, Breathe is an oasis of heavenly scents and pretty diffusers.

Owned by Asya Jalil and Maham Asaf, Breathe would not look out of place tucked into an expensive corner of Notting Hill in London. It’s rare to find stores in Pakistan that have given this much thought to the shopping experience as well as to the merchandise. Breathe’s minimalist interior displays artistic floral diffusers and gift boxes. Chunky lab-style glass bottles hold samples of the scents while a delicate bureau houses elegant stationery.

The décor and merchandise is very Jo Malone but the prices, thankfully, are nowhere near as high.
“We wanted to offer something attractive yet affordable,” says Jalil. “Nothing in the boutique will set you back more than Rs2,500.” Despite this, the merchandise has a very high-end feel.

Asaf elaborates, “We sell the sort of pretty things we love to have in our own homes. There’s something so satisfying about surrounding your senses with beauty. A serene and attractive environment is likely to bring you joy in little ways that are hard to define. And scent is an integral part of that.”

It’s undoubtedly necessary to have something to counter that indoor fug that results from the heat and humidity in Karachi. Breathe’s essential oil-based home scents are 100% organic and eco-friendly. They are world away from the chemical smelling air freshener sprays and plug-ins in the market. The added advantage of using diffusers to deliver home scents is that there is no flame involved. This makes them perfect for use anywhere, from offices to children’s rooms.

In fact, Breathe has a rather fabulous children’s line, which includes scented stuffed animals for drawers, scented fabric cupcakes and cups of scented gel.

The scents themselves are divided into four families — wood, floral, herb and fruity. Each section contains five or six unique scents that are available in a range of beautiful diffusers.The diffusers are all handmade and wood based but range from simple reeds to extravagant flowers. The flowers are particularly gorgeous. Initially off-white, their delicate petals often change colour, once you dip the wick in the scent. There’s no telling what colour the flower may turn, though some of those in store ranged from green to pink-tipped black.

The scents themselves are wonderful and light yet distinct. From the masculine woody scents to the clear herbal ones, there’s something to suit everyone’s taste. Asaf’s personal favourite is frangipani, an exotic flower that smells very similar to the local favourite, motia.
Jalil meanwhile, prefers the woody fresh scent of the Nile Forest.

Breathe offers refills, so when your scent runs out, you can replace it with any scent from their range. They also sell replacement diffusers and make up customised gift boxes in tasteful packaging.

Their stationery line is similarly understated yet refined. There are pretty journals, notepads, cards and notelets. All are digitally-printed on high quality paper. The quirky cards say everything from “OMG” to “congratulations” and are blank inside instead of having mawkish generic messages.
All of their stationery can be personalised in any quantity, from one to a 1000 or more. Their personal stationery range is particularly lovely. These are sets of letter-paper, notelets and cards stamped in gold with a fleur-de-lys, lotus leaf or butterfly. They can be fully personalised and are perfect for handwritten notes — so much more intimate than an email.

This niche boutique is a welcome, affordable addition to the Karachi scene. So much thought has been put into the merchandise that it’s the ideal spot for housewarming, birthday and other gifts. It’s also perfect for a little personal indulgence in the love of beautiful things.

Breathe is located in Bukhari Commercial Area in the same lane as Neco's and Bina Khan
Address: Shop #5, 34C, Bokhari Commercial Lane 1, Phase 8, DHA Karachi.
Phone: 0333-222-0361

Published in the Express Tribune on 9th June 2013

Labels CEO Zahir Rahimtoola talks change and revolution at the multi-brand store.

Major changes are afoot at Labels, the pioneer of fashion retailing in Pakistan. Along with Ensemble and Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PFDC), Labels is still one of the premier multi-brand retailers in the country.

However, the fashion retail landscape in Pakistan is changing fast. Increasingly, top designers are choosing to open their own outlets. Meanwhile, any shop that can cobble together a handful of half-baked designers is calling itself a multi-brand store these days. Labels needed to differentiate itself from those run-of-the-mill stores with their cramped racks and poorly edited content. Ever the innovator, CEO Zahir Rahimtoola is masterminding nothing less than a revolution at Labels.

Labels is moving away from the traditional multi-brand store concept towards more exclusive territory. It is shifting mainly to the boutique-within-a-boutique concept of luxury retail along the lines of Selfridges or Harvey Nichols, though of course on a smaller scale. Top tier designers including, Sania Maskatiya, Nida Azwer, Elan by Khadija Shah and Zara Shahjahan, are already on board. Other reputed upcoming designers such as Tena Durrani and Shamsha Hashwani will also have a store within the store at the revamped Labels. Rahimtoola is in talks with other senior designers along the same lines. Each label will have large areas laid out for them and will stock between 75 and 100 outfits on average.

Rather than stocking a large number of designers of various calibres, Labels is choosing to focus on quality. In the near future, Labels will be a destination where customers will be able to browse extensive collections from some of the country’s best designers. So does this mean that there will be no space at the store for smaller labels? Nothing of the sort according to Rahimtoola, as he says, “We are fortunate to have large retail spaces. Hence, we are working on a multi-concept model whereby we will have a ‘store within store’ and independent racking options as well as an area for new talent.”

“As we evolve, we will continue to remain a one-stop store providing casual clothing, luxury-wear and bridal options,” he adds.

Zahir Rahimtoola

Rahimtoola confirms that though they are editing their designer base, they will continue to support designers who have performed consistently at Labels in terms of sales and inventory. They are also taking their own brand to the next level. They will presently launch new collections by in-house designer Mahrukh Jamote for the forthcoming season.

Not content with innovation on the ground, Labels is also taking ebusiness to a new level. The Labels estore was ground-breaking, in that, it was the first to officially offer luxury brands like Sania Maskatiya online. Their professional layout and obvious retail expertise immediately attracted customers. From day one, Labels aggressively promoted the e-business model and worked with bloggers to promote fashion blogging and the online presence of Pakistani fashion in general. Their subsequent collaboration with Style360 has propelled them to even greater heights. Mashables and TechInAsia recently rated the Style360 Labels estore as one of the best ecommerce businesses in Pakistan.

It hasn’t all been smooth sailing though. Labels accepts Paypal and all major credit cards, but Pakistan’s lack of systems for processing payments is an issue they had to work around. There are also other challenges. “One of the biggest problems faced by online businesses in Pakistan is that there is hardly any standardisation of sizes and specs and most designers work on an ad-hoc basis, as opposed to creating seasonal collections,” Rahimtoola continues. “Therefore, there’s a continuous need to upload inventory which is very labour-intensive”

Nevertheless, the Style360 Labels estore is a huge success. They currently offer a wider range of top designers than any other estore. Furthermore, Rahimtoola scored a coup when he made the Fashion Pakistan Week Collections available online, straight off the ramp.

Contrary to popular belief, they have a significant clientele in Pakistan, as well as abroad. The Style360 Labels estore is the only place to buy designers like Shehla Chatoor who are otherwise only available by appointment at their exclusive showrooms. Moreover, customers from all over Pakistan can shop online with the convenience of paying cash on delivery. Add to that, the customisation and alteration service that the estore offers and it’s easy to understand why it has become so popular both locally and overseas.

Labels was the first fashion retailer in Pakistan and it’s plain to see that it is adapting very well to the changing retail climate in Pakistan. The Style360 Labels estore continues to break new ground on the ecommerce front. Meanwhile, the reinvention of Labels on the store-within-a-store concept will help ensure that Labels remains one of the leading designer fashion retailers in Pakistan.

SanaSafinaz — Pakistan’s Google superstars

Published in the Express Tribune on 17th June 2013

SanaSafinaz - Pakistan's most sought after designers according to Google

It’s official. SanaSafinaz are the most sought after Pakistani fashion designers in the world! According to the Google Adwords tool, “Sana Safinaz” is searched for on Google more times a month than any other Pakistani designer label. The actual numbers are quite staggering. 49,500 searches are made globally every month for the term SanaSafinaz. No other designer even comes close. Umar Sayeed and Nomi Ansari get 10,000 searches apiece while Sania Maskatiya gets merely 4,400 searches a month.

When contacted, Safinaz Muneer of SanaSafinaz said, “This is simply amazing. We feel incredibly blessed and humbled. We are just two women designing clothes we love and it is marvelous to get this sort of recognition.”

SanaSafinaz’s closest online competitor in terms of searches is probably HSY. But perhaps the numbers are inaccurate; HSY is also the symbol on the New York Stock Exchange for the Hershey Chocolate Company. So although the term HSY similarly gets 49,500 searches a month, it’s a fair bet that quite a few of those searches are for Hershey’s. This is borne out by the result when Googling HSY. It is further confirmed by isolating the numbers for Pakistan, SanaSafinaz get 27,100 searches a month compared to 14,800 for HSY.

It’s hard enough pinning down numbers for HSY. For brands like Elan, Layla Chatoor and Karma, it’s next to impossible to work out exactly how often they are Googled. The word Karma gets 6 million searches a month but a keyword analysis shows that very few of those are for Karma the designer. Most of the 4 million people Googling “Layla” are not searching for Layla Chatoor. Similarly, the word Elan gets 1.8 million searches a month globally but the figure of 6,600 a month from Pakistan shows that few of the global searches are for Khadijah Shah’s Elan. Type in Elan by Khadija Shah and you will find less than 320 searches a month.

Shehla Chatoor is another such case. She identifies the brand by the name Shehla but that is such a common name that some of the 18,000 people Googling the word “Shehla” could have someone else in mind. The adwords result for “Shehla Chatoor” is very low but a fair number of the top pages listed when you Google “Shehla” are related to Shehla Chatoor.

Thus, Adwords is a crude tool at best. Google itself could definitely give more accurate information based on the websites searchers eventually go to but that information is unlikely to become available. However, used along with a keyword analysis and after looking at the pages generated by Googling designer names, it is possible to form a creditable picture using the Adwords tool.

It’s hard to judge how popular designers are. Media coverage is one possible judgment criteria but unfortunately, heavy spending on advertising and a savvy PR strategy can mean certain brands get an unwarranted amount of media attention. A much better comparison method would be to look at sales but no designer could possibly be persuaded to impart that sort of sensitive information. Even if the figures were available, it would be difficult to compare as price points vary so much.

Facebook Page likes do provide another layer of information. HSY far outstrips everyone else in this respect with 700,000 likes. SanaSafinaz has only half as many. Layla Chatoor, Elan, Shehla and Karma all have Facebook likes running into the 100s of 1000s. Tena Durrani, who sells like hot cakes at the Style360 Labels estore, also has 200,000 likes. Less tech-savvy designers lose out on the Facebook analysis. Rizwan Beyg’s page has merely 3,000 likes while Maheen Khan, doesn’t appear to have a Facebook page at all. What’s interesting though, is that someone like Bunto Kazmi, who has no website and no Facebook page still gets nearly 3000 Google searches a month. With a nine-month waiting time, Kazmi obviously has no need to increase her business but the opportunity is there, should she ever choose to use it.

Google Adwords may be an imprecise tool but in a world where the Internet seems ever more important, it provides an interesting insight into the popularity of various designers. SanaSafinaz stands head and shoulders above their nearest competitor HSY in terms of the number of people Googling them each month. Newcomers like Sania Maskatiya and Nida Azwer may have the retail presence but are not in the same ballpark as SanaSafinaz in terms of people seeking them online.
SanaSafinaz should be setting their sights on the heights reached by top Indian designers Sabyasachi and Manish Malhotra, who are Googled around 125,000 times a month each. Whether these searches translate into sales is irrelevant. What they demonstrate is brand recognition and the popularity that a brand has achieved. SanaSafinaz has proved it is Pakistan’s most stellar fashion brand.

Pictures courtesy The Express Tribune

10 great holiday shopping ideas

Off overseas? Save space in your luggage for these goodies.

Published in The Express Tribune, June 24^th, 2013.

One of the disadvantages of living in a third world country is that good quality, ordinary, everyday items can be incredibly hard to find. You could pick up a great bucket and mop from Wal-mart for next to nothing; you’d have to pay more than double for something approaching the same level of quality here in Pakistan. And this is why there was a time when people lugged everything from duvets to batteries from abroad. However, in recent years, a much wider variety of high quality items have become available in Pakistan.

Al-Fatah in Lahore, Agha’s in Karachi and Jinnah Supermarket in Islamabad are unmatched in terms of imported groceries, make-up and other essentials while international chains like Mango, Next and Accessorize are bringing the high street to Pakistan. There are still, however, some things worth making space in your luggage for. If you are off on your holidays, here are the top 10 things that should be on your shopping list:

1.   Bare Minerals Foundation — worn with primer, it’s the perfect foundation for our tropical climate. It is light, yet gives good coverage while managing to look natural. As with all foundations, do take the time to work out which is the perfect colour for your skin-tone — the wrong colour foundation will kill even the prettiest face.

2.   Lingerie— great lingerie is incredibly hard to find here in Pakistan. Voluminous clothes mean we don’t need to worry about VPLs but the right lingerie can change the shape of an outfit and smooth out the little bumps and bulges we all have. Indispensable.

3.   A GHD straightener — forget Babybliss and those other brands in the market. Our frizz friendly climate means hair needs extra help and the GHD straightener is perfect for a salon style finish when you can’t make it to the salon. Quick and easy — use it once and you’ll realise why other straighteners are simply not in the same league.

4.   A great pair of designer heels — yes, we have some great shoe shops in Pakistan, but if you want designer shoes you can expect to pay extremely hefty prices. While you are overseas, you should be able to snag a pair at a sale or outlet for at least 30% less. If your budget doesn’t stretch to designer shoes, Zara, Massimo Dutti and Topshop do some great shoes that ape designer shoe trends.

5.   Ballet pumps— Tory Burch pumps are having a moment among Pakistan’s jet-set but there are plenty of other options. Tod’s do some great loafers and ballet pumps while some fabulous options are available are Jimmy Choo and Ferragamo. Catch the sales and you could score a pair for not a lot more than the price of a Menahel Mehreen semi-formal outfit. And the pumps will lift a host of different outfits — so they’re practically an investment!

6.   Batiste Dry Shampoo — occasionally available at Agha’s, it’s worth having your own stash for when you really can’t manage to wash your hair. Spray, massage and brush out for hair that looks and smells fresh.

7.   Artificial flowers — the only artificial flowers available in Pakistan are the plastic-looking cheap kind. Chen One does some decent artificial plants but you can get wonderful silk flowers abroad that look so real that you have to touch them to be sure they’re not. Try Sia or The One in Dubai for an amazing selection.

8.   Home accents— although Renaissance has recently made it much easier to find decent home accents here in Pakistan, it’s always worth looking around for decorative pieces when you’re travelling. Vases, frames, wall hangings — the possibilities are endless. The added advantage is that objects around your home will remind you of your various trips.

9.   Costume jewellery— Between Sunday bazaar, Accessorize, SanaSafinaz and Saddar, you can find a host of costume jewellery here in Karachi but it’s worth checking out high street offerings by the likes of Zara and Topshop as well as street markets abroad for the odd exceptional piece.

10. Tech gadgets — pick up the latest electronic items from abroad and you’re sure to save yourself a pretty penny. Whether you’re looking for a Wii U,a kindle or the latest video baby monitor, you are bound to find a better selection and cheaper prices abroad than you would here in Pakistan.

This is of course, far from a comprehensive list. Everyone has their own personal favourites that they stock up on when going overseas. What’s in your top 10?

Published in the Express Tribune on August 18, 2013

KARACHI: So the healthy Ramazan regime went out the window when you smelled your first pakora. On Eid, the sheer luxury of being able to eat, whatever the time of day, took its toll. Cakes and mithai, sheer korma and samosas filled in the gaps between massive festive lunches and dinners.

You’d never normally dream of eating karai chicken, nihari, kunna and biryani at the same time but on Eid, anything goes. You tell yourself you deserve a few days of indulgence after a month of fasting, but you know in your heart that every iftari brought its own excesses.

It may have been masked by pre-Eid salon sessions, but chances are the cycle of fasting and feasting has taken a toll on your skin, hair and general well-being, even if you’ve faithfully been popping vitamins. Luckily, a few simple steps can boost your vitality and get your lifestyle onto a healthier track.

Get moving

It’s time to shake off that Ramazan lethargy. Whether you are a couch potato or a gym-freak, you will have curtailed your activity levels while fasting. If you’re not someone who exercises regularly, do take the time to build your exercise regimen gradually. Walking, yoga, swimming and tennis are all great ways to become more active. You may not be able to do much at first but aim to build up to three 20-minute sessions that raise your heart rate every week.

Go fresh and natural

Cut back on all processed foods. Eat less sugar, biscuits, cake, mithai, white bread, processed meats and nimco. Increase your intake of fresh raw fruits and vegetables. Experiment with some of those great salad recipes out there on the net. Eating your greens doesn’t have to be boring. Thai salad anyone?

Hydrate
Remember to drink sufficient water. Fasting gets us out of the habit of drinking regularly but the sooner you return to a good hydration regime, the better.

Pay attention to your food
Eat a balanced, varied diet that is low in red meat, salt and oil. Compensate by upping your intake of lean white meat, pulses and fibre. Use fresh herbs, spices and lemon juice to boost flavour as you cut back on salt. Eat at regular intervals to avoid blood sugar spikes. Remember to take your vitamins — those supplements won’t do you any good sitting on your shelf.

Give your hair some love
Take some time out to oil your hair once in a while. Treat your hair to a protein treatment at a salon. For a less pricey option, try a homemade mask of gelatin in hot water or two egg yolks with two teaspoons of olive oil. While your diet will have the greatest impact on your hair, a little TLC can work wonders for the condition of your hair.

Let your skin breathe

Let your skin breathe: Cleanse, tone and moisturise but don’t be aggressive with your skin.

As your body detoxes, you may find yourself breaking out. Be meticulous about skincare. Cleanse, tone and moisturise but don’t be aggressive with your skin — a soft approach is the quickest way to bring back the bloom.

None of this is rocket science but it’s surprisingly difficult to implement. We all know what’s good for us but we take an all-or-nothing approach. We can’t manage to exercise three times a week so we don’t even bother with the one time we could manage. We can’t give up sugar in our tea, so we don’t bother trying to cut back on it. Very few people manage to live up to the health and activity regimens recommended by nutritionists but even small changes can make a significant impact on your well-being. So even if you’re addicted to chilli chips or can’t give up dessert, take charge of your well-being and introduce some positive changes to your lifestyle.

Finally, don’t neglect your spiritual side. Hold onto that renewed spiritual energy that Ramazan brings and make time for your faith. A holistic approach to well-being incorporates the physical, mental and spiritual. Without the esoteric, everything else is just window dressing.

Newly opened Farid's is well-stocked and well-priced

Farid’s Superstore at Ocean Mall in Clifton is causing a buzz around town. With 45,000 feet of retail space, Farid’s is more than just a grocery store. The ground floor includes grocery, pharmacy, beauty, electronics and tableware departments.

The grocery section itself includes a branch of Rahat Bakery from Lahore and a Deli, which is run by Café Aylanto. There is an extensive books section run by Liberty Books, as well as a large film and music department by Laraib Music. The upper floor, which is not accessible directly from the mall, houses the homewares department, luggage, gym equipment, camping and hunting equipment, and a lingerie section.

And yet, plenty of retail space is no guarantee of success. The short-lived D-Mart had the space to include a deli counter, a meat counter and more, alongside an extensive grocery section. However, it was poorly laid out and never quite managed to get its mix of stock quite right. This, and an over-reliance on own-brand products quickly lost it customers. Housewives don’t want to go to a store where they won’t find the top-selling local brand of washing-up liquid.

Farid’s, however, has not made any of these mistakes. The grocery section is well thought out and offers a staggering variety of well-known brands, both local and imported. There is a dedicated baby shop in the pharmacy section that has everything from Avent bottles to Cerelac. Its own brand of rice, daals, spices, etc are all high quality and well-priced. The meat section similarly, is super-hygienic and is priced lower than competitors like Hyperstar. It also stocks specialist gluten-free food and organic food, as well as catering for wheelchair users. An immense amount of thought has gone into the inventory and layout and this is what will keep customers coming back.

The tableware section is particularly well done, with a small but well chosen array that includes Royal Doulton and silver chafing dishes, as well as brands from the Far East. Budding Masterchefs can find an interesting array of kitchen gadgets including those appealing blow torches that chefs on TV are always using.

The homewares section is the only one that is not entirely convincing. Existing stores like Gul Ahmed Ideas and Chen One offer a better selection of bedding and towels. There are some interesting decorative home accents but overall the choice is somewhat limited. This section could have been so much more. What Farid’s does do well, is that is has a great variety of high-quality home products. Little things like storage jars, dustbins, soap dishes, shoe racks and toilet brushes — all very tasteful and priced to suit any budget.

Farid’s is keen not to pigeon-hole itself as an upscale, high-priced store merely for the moneyed few. It claims to cater to everyone and seems to have achieved this. It has the space to stock an extensive range of local products alongside its imported and specialist goods. It certainly made an effort to include quality products to suit every budget. For example, Farid’s tableware section includes hand-painted Pakistani plates as well as Versace tea sets. The beauty section has displays for Karaja and Luscious as well as MAC and Clarins. The toy section has Fisher-Price toys alongside less well-known brands. This aim to suit every pocket is bound to work to Farid’s advantage, but it is ultimately its range of luxury goods that sets it apart. The cigar store, the extensive range of golfing equipment and the designer cufflinks in the men’s corner are all aimed at a certain lifestyle.

Al-Fatah in Lahore may not have a mini spa or nail art machine like Farid’s, but it offers an even wider range of goods than Farid’s. However, it is difficult to think of a store in Karachi that offers everything this store does. Other upscale groceries tend not to have as wide a variety of local goods due to space considerations. Groceries like EBCO and My Superstore have the space but haven’t achieved the same delicate balance between everyday and luxury groceries. For example, Farid’s has a far more extensive cheese section than either EBCO or My Superstore, and it is the only one that stocks Lloyd Grossman’s Pasta sauce as well as cheaper varieties.

Farid's sources meat from top Pakistani exporters

Prices at all these stores are very similar though Farid’s is keen to point out that it’s prices are more reasonable than Hyperstar for staples like meat and daal. Like Farid’s, Hyperstar does offer more than just groceries, but its inventory of imported goods is not of the same high standard as Farid’s. Add the hangout possibilities at Liberty Books and the mini-food court outside, and it’s clear that Farid’s is set to become very popular indeed.

Published in theExpress Tribuneon 1st September 2013

Wired parenting is an entirely new ballgame – savvy parents need to re-access their attitude to screen time. Unlike time spent in front of the TV, computer time may be crucial to your child’s development.

This video of a car crashing into our lounge was knocked together by my 10 year old

The Google generation of school kids needs a radically different set of skills. While you or I might remember trawling through encyclopedias or library books to complete school projects, generation X, Y and beyond, of course, seek answers online. Even ignoring the issue of inappropriate sites that pop up for innocent key words, they soon realize not all websites are equally reliable. Search engine optimisation techniques used by commercial sites mean that the top sites resulting from a search may be sites looking to sell you something or earn dollars from clicks. They may be sites pushing a particular agenda and may not be impartial. Students have to learn at a much earlier age to question sources, look for corroborative data and sift through misinformation. In our internet-dependent age, these may be some of the most important skills they learn in school.

Programming is another area that is rapidly becoming more and more mainstream. You may not know how to program a computer, but learning to code may be invaluable to your child. From creative fields such as animation and journalism to supposedly geeky computer science and math, the ability to code will give your child an edge.

Just as writing compositions teaches children multiple skills, writing code develops a variety of aptitudes. Various forms of writing teach students how to organize their ideas, elaborate, synopsise and express themselves. According to MIT professor Mitchel Resnick, learning to code is useful on many levels. “In addition to learning mathematical and computational ideas (such as variables and conditionals), they are also learning strategies for solving problems, designing projects, and communicating ideas. These skills are useful not just for computer scientists but for everyone, regardless of age, background, interests, or occupation,” he says.

MIT is responsible for one of the best programs for teaching children to code. Scratch is a programming language and online community designed to introduce coding to children through simple drag and drop blocks. It can be used to make interactive stories, animations, games as well as a host of other projects. The best schools in Karachi already introduce their children to Scratch as part of their computer classes. Using Scratch is free and easy – you just log onto the website and after watching some simple tutorials even an 8 year old can start doing animations.

The Scratch interface is easy and intuitive

There are various other programs and apps available. Hopscotch is a great free iPad app that gives a visual introduction to coding for 8-12 year olds. Stencyl and App Inventor are kid-friendly programming tools that allow users make their own Apps, though Scratch is perhaps the best starting point for newbies.

My two-year old's favourite educational iPad app - he's not toilet trained yet but he knows his way around an iPad

So what about all the studies that suggest time spent on the internet or playing video games stunts brain development and social skills? The programs that help children learn to code may seem like games, but they are easy to justify as educational experiences. Similarly, blogging is simply great for developing writing, editing and photography skills. What about other computer use? Considering how much socialising takes place digitally nowadays, via smartphones and tablets, it may just be that the social skills required in the future may be somewhat more complex than we realize. furthermore interactive video games can nurture abilities such as memory, dexterity, forward planning, perseverance and problem solving. Surgeons, for example, play video games to keep their skills sharp. This doesn’t mean that you can park your child in front of any old shoot-em-up game. However, it does mean that even simple entertainers like Super Mario Bros do have their benefits — not least of which is giving your child something to talk about in the playground. No one wants to be the kid that doesn’t have a clue about something that all his or her friends are talking about.


Video calls were science fiction when we were growing up - now my 9 year old will Facetime his cousin so they can watch football "together"

With issues such as cyber bullying and the prevalence of porn online, parents definitely have to monitor their children’s computer usage. However, they must be aware that their children are growing up in a digital environment. They need visual analytical skills that were unnecessary a generation ago. When we were growing up we never dreamt of the likes of Facebook or YouTube. Our children are similarly preparing for a future that neither they nor we can imagine. While reading, art, music and sports are as important as ever as pastimes for children, time in front of the computer shouldn’t automatically be seen as wasted time.

Published in the Express Tribune on Spetember 4th 2013

Corto Moltedo's glitzy clutches

PHOTO: AYESHA MIR/EXPRESS

KARACHI: Pakistan’s social elite loves its designer labels. From Hina Rabbani Khar with her Birkin to newly-wed Chinioti teenagers toting Chanel 2.55s, there’s no dearth of luxe label groupies in Pakistan.
On Tuesday, for the first time ever in Pakistan, they got a chance to meet an international designer in person and shop his collection. Top Indian stylist Pernia Qureshi, in collaboration with Labels, presented a trunk collection by rising star Corto Moltedo.

Corto Moltedo. PHOTOS: AYESHA MIR/EXPRESS

The stylish and charming Corto may not be a household name but designing is in his blood. He is the son of Bottega Veneta founders, Laura and Vittorio Moltedo, and learnt the fundamentals of the craft from a young age during summers at the factory. Bottega Veneta was sold to the Gucci group in 2001 but Corto founded his own label in 2004, a label that reflects his own flamboyant and quirky personality.

Corto is a favourite of fashion savvy celebrities including Sonam Kapoor, Sienna Miller, Jade Jagger and Paris Hilton. A heady mix of bling, quality and style, Corto’s clutches are crafted in luxurious crocodile leather, goatskin, nappa (lambskin), suede or ostrich leather. For this trunk collection Corto chose to display mainly evening bags, keeping in mind the upcoming party and wedding seasons.
The trunk collection consisted of a selection of his Susan clutches, a staple of Corto’s brand – the canvas for huge variety of designs. At his boutiques in Paris and Milan, it is not unusual to see up to a hundred versions of the Susan on display.

There were two distinct classes of clutch in the collection. The Susan Shock is relatively minimalistic with four signature gold squares and was available in various interesting textures. The rest of the collection was gloriously blingy, perfect for pairing with either Eastern wedding wear or Western evening dresses. Inspired by everything from cityscapes to peacocks, the clutches make a bold style statement.

Peacock clutch by Corto

PHOTO: AYESHA MIR/EXPRESS

Corto describes his personality as southern rather than northern, warm rather than cool, sun rather than mountain. This very Italian description perfectly fits his vibrant expressive persona and explains why his designs are so different from the minimalist approach of his parents’ label, Bottega.
Corto is definitely a niche luxury label. Only the best materials are used and the quality is superb. A mere eight to 12 pieces are made of each design. The stock never goes on sale and isn’t stocked by any wholesalers or multi-brand stores. Only sold through private viewings and through Corto’s own website and boutiques, the brand is clearly aiming for exclusivity.

He has a clear idea of the type of woman he is designing for. “She is cosmopolitan and independent-minded. She’s a connoisseur and expects the highest quality. Vivacious and fashion-conscious, she prefers to set trends rather than following them,” he says.

Corto has taken his private viewings all over the world. He’s had trunk shows in Geneva, Dubai, Delhi, Jakarta, Singapore, China and all over the Middle East. It’s an interesting marketing technique and probably a smart one for a relatively young brand making its mark on luxury scene.

Pernia Qureshi who introduced Corto in India agrees, saying, “Corto makes some of my favourite clutches and his niche brand has developed quite a following in India. It takes time to introduce a new luxury label to a market, for customers to get used to the brand. It’s not a brand for everyone and so you cannot market it in the way you would market Louis Vuitton, for example.”

Pernia is stylist to stars such as Sonam Kapoor and has styled her in films like Aisha. She first met Corto through mutual friends, when Vogue asked her to host a dinner and a trunk show for him in Delhi. They’ve been friends ever since. Knowledgeable and chic, Pernia has a fantastic eye for fashion and her endorsement is highly prized.

Pernia Qureshi in Anamika Couture and Nasreen Qureshi in Dior couture

Nasreen Qureshi, Pernia Qureshi. PHOTO: AYESHA MIR/EXPRESS

At the viewing, she paired a purple Susan Shock with stunning Anamika Khanna Couture cape. Her mother Nasreen Qureshi chose an embellished clutch to complement her Dior Couture outfit.

Labels was a smart choice for the trunk show. Zahir Rahimtoola brought together a great selection of Karachi’s high society movers and shakers. This is the crowd that routinely carries Bottega, Alexander McQueen and the highly covetable Marchesa clutches. Corto’s eclectic clutches found some definite fans while others preferred the style of more renowned brands. Corto may not be for everyone, but he’s a designer who’s going places. Karachi’s luxury fashion elite enjoyed the chance to see him in their hometown – for a few short hours, Karachi seemed less of an international fashion backwater.

Cinema Wars: Karachi’s best spots for a movie night

Published in the Express Tribune on 8th Sept 2013

Atrium Cinema, Saddar

Fancy a night out at the movies? The cinema has become one of Karachi’s favourite past-times in recent years. With the opening of Nueplex in Phase 8, Karachi now has four family-friendly premium cinemas. But how do they compare and which offers the best experience to movie-goers?

Cineplex
Cineplex cinema Karachi

The first premium family cinema in Karachi, Cineplex, opened in 2005. However, it is now in dire need of refurbishment. One cinema-goer described the experience as being like going to see a movie in someone’s basement home theatre.
Cineplex Cinema Karachi

Location: Seaview, Defence near The Village Restaurant
No. of Screens: 5
Ticket Price: Rs400

Pros
Convenient for Clifton and Defence, Cineplex is not that busy. The more popular cinemas have a higher turnover of movies, shunting even popular films to bizarre screening times very quickly. Cineplex is good for catching films that you’ve missed elsewhere.

Cons
The seats are poky and the screens are fairly small — you’ve had it if someone tall sits in front of you. Cineplex has no 3D screens and apparently, also periodically has electricity problems. It also has only one exit and no cell signals, which isn’t great from a security point of view.
Verdict: Only worth going if you’ve exhausted all other options, and maybe not even then..

Atrium Cinema
Atrium Cinema Karachi

Location: At Atrium Mall in Saddar, close to Zainab Market
No. of Screens: 3
Ticket Price:
Rs350 Cinemas A&B (Rs450 for 3D)
Rs450 Cinema D (Rs550 for 3D)

The first 3D Cinema in Karachi, Atrium, has been a runaway success ever since it opened. Despite a less than ideal location and a sometimes dodgy crowd, Atrium is most people’s first choice in premium cinema.

Pros
Atrium has roomy seats and large screens. It has excellent 3D, a great ambience and clean bathrooms. Last but not least, it has the best popcorn in town.

Cons
Atrium’s biggest downside is its terrible location. While convenient for both Defence/Clifton and the KDA side of town, Atrium has minimal parking and awful valet service. It's near a place that protest marches go through every time there's unrest in the city. The mall and cinema attracts a very mixed crowd, and women by themselves are prone to getting ogled at by packs of young men. Atrium is also a victim of its own success. It has only three screens and limited capacity, so getting seats is difficult and can involve repeated trips to the mall. The telephone booking system tends to get inundated quickly and hence, is unreliable.

Verdict: The best overall movie experience in town, but location and limited capacity are both issues.

Cinepax
Cinepax Cinema, Ocean Mall Karachi

Located in Clifton, Cinepax is convenient for the Defence/Clifton crowd. Smaller than Atrium and Nueplex, Cinepax aims for a more luxurious experience with premium screens, recliner seats and quality snacks.

Location: At Ocean Mall, Clifton near 2 Talwar
No. of Screens: 3
Ticket Price:
Silver Screen Rs450 (Rs600 for 3D)
Gold Screen Rs750
Platinum Screen Rs1,000 (Rs1,200 for 3D)

Pros
Cinepax has a great location and huge snack selection including burgers and fries. It offers recliner seats and blankets to counter the chill factor in the premium screens. It has lovely bathrooms and is the only cinema to offer online booking. It’s perfect for a girls’ night out due to location and crowd quality.

Cons
Screens sizes aren’t huge and the 3D, while good, is not as great as Atrium and Nueplex. The seats in the silver screen are not very comfortable. The escalators to the cinema are not conveniently placed, which is annoying as the lift service is sporadic. You can sometimes hear movies in adjoining cinema halls, and low capacity means it’s difficult to get seats. Crucially, many people have complained the popcorn is always stale.
Verdict: Great location, but silver screen should be better. The premium screens offer a better experience but are pricey if you go the movies often. Thankfully, Cinepax say they’ve fixed the popcorn — stale popcorn ruins movie night.

Nueplex
Nueplex Cinema, Karachi

Nueplex is part of The Place, a dedicated entertainment complex that has just opened in Phase 8. It has a huge capacity and state-of-the-art equipment.
Nueplex Cinema, Karachi

Location: Phase 8, Defence
No. of Screens: 5
Ticket Price:
Rs500 Cinema 1-4 (Rs600 for 3D)
Rs1,000 Royal Screen (Rs1,250 for 3D)

Pros
Nueplex has huge screens, a good 3D system, efficient telephone bookers and an attractive ambience. The royal theatre offers food service, a dedicated waiting area and recliner seats. The popcorn is delicious.

Cons
The bathrooms are clean but very small. Nueplex is the priciest of the cinemas, for everything from tickets to snacks. It is very far for those not living in Defence, and is in a quite unpopulated area. The standard cinema seats are just a tad less comfy than Atrium.

Verdict: It is a little far for those who don’t live in Defence, but in terms of screen size and overall cinematic experience, it is only rivaled by Atrium.

Bilal Khan hits the right note with Dou Gharee

published in the Sunday magazine of the Daily Times on Sunday 8th September

Fall in love with Bilal Khan all over again with his new song Dou Gharee. Upbeat and romantic, Dou Gharee is a world away from the raw tormented ballads that launched Bilal Khan as a pop sensation. However, unlike his some of his subsequent songs, Dou Gharee has the same soulful vibe that characterizes previous hits “Lamha” and “To Kiya Hua”.

Singer Bilal Khan and Annie Ali Khan in a still from the video of Dou Gharee

The song was written during Bilal's US tour, on New Year's Eve in New York

Bridal by Pakistani designers Ayesha Somaya

Ayesha-Somaya's exhibitions are notorious in Karachi for being something of a scrum. Before they opened their retail store, society ladies would climb over each other to get into their highly-subscribed exhibitions. Since they opened their flagship store in Karachi, fashion lovers have been able to indulge in Ayesha Somaya's unique Luxury Pret whenever they like.

The sale racks were well stocked with cottons, chiffons and silks

Sale items by Pakistani designers Ayesha Somaya

Twice a year, however, Ayesha Somaya hold a one-day 50%-off sale. It's an event that has fans queuing up outside the store. When Ayesha Somaya first started out, their exhibitions were famous because the racks would empty in minutes. The same thing happens these days at their bi-annual sale where simply everything is marked down by 50%.

Mayhem as the doors open at Ayesha Somaya's bi-annual sale

popular Sale items by Pakistani designers Ayesha Somaya

The sale included everything from daywear to wedding wear

empty sale racks at Pakistani designers Ayesha Somaya

The racks were empty in minutes

While not in the top tier of "high fashion" as yet, Designer duo Ayesha Somaya are hugely popular because of their creative, wearable clothes. Their appealing aesthetic can be dressed up or down and their versatile range is popular with old and young alike. The clever little details they add to their clothes are unmatched and their pretty, feminine style has plenty of fans.

As well as their semi-formal and Luxury Pret line, Ayesha Somaya have an extensive Bridal range which is only available on-order. The pair are known for combining traditional embroidery techniques with modern cuts. Unlike some diva designers, they are prepared to change colours within reason and are sympathetic to their clients sensibilities. They will change halters to full-sleeves and vice-versa according to the customer's requirements.

The store before the bargain hunting hordes hit

Given the depth of their designing talent, it seems a shame that Ayesha Somaya have not built on their one fashion week showing. Ayesha explains that they took a conscious decision to consolidate their retail base first.

Ayesha

Some of the sale items

"We have a very strong customer base for our luxury pret and we wanted to build on that and concentrate on our retail outlets first. We stock in several countries and we wanted to streamline our production so that we can consistently deliver to all our outlets while maintaining the high standards our customers expect. We do however intend to show at fashion weeks in the coming year or so."

Formal by Ayesha Somaya

This is an admirable strategy. We have designers who will put together and show collections that customers never get to see. They don't have the capacity to produce or market the clothes they show. Ayesha Somaya have chosen to concentrate on getting their production just right but they have also shown they have oodles of design talent. Here's hoping they take their label to the next level.

Designer Duo Ayesha and Somaya

Stylist Pernia Qureshi : Game Changer

Published in the Express Tribune on 15th September 2013

Stylist’s Pop-Up Shop offers a stunning range of clothing and accessories.

In love with fashion from across the border? Warm up your credit card because it’s no longer necessary to beg for a visa to indulge in your love for Indian style. The best of Indian fashion, from superstar designers to emerging stars, is now just a click away. Pernia’s Pop-Up Shop, India’s answer to Net-a-Porter, offers a stunning range of clothes and accessories picked by Indian stylist Pernia Qureshi.

Pernia may be just 28, but she has swept onto the Indian fashion scene like a force of nature. She moved back to India in 2008 after post-graduation stints at the hottest fashion mags in New York, and then worked with the likes of Tarun Talhiani and JJ Valaya. But what really made India sit up and take notice was when she styled the 2010 film Aisha. Pernia dressed star Sonam Kapoor in Dior and Chanel, and her unique cosmopolitan high fashion aesthetic has been in the limelight ever since. Within a few short years, she has proved that she is a game changer and is shaping up to become one of the most powerful women in Indian fashion.

A link to the viral video for those in Pakistan without a Youtube proxy. Kudos to AIB, Kalki and everyone involved.

Update: sorry this link doesn't show up on mobiles or iPad - you're gonna have to fire up your laptop/desktop.

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Karachi-based Designer duo Ayesha Somaya are hugely popular because of their creative, wearable clothes

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Karachi-based Designer duo Ayesha Somaya are hugely popular because of their creative, wearable clothes

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Published in the Express Tribune on 15th September 2013

Published in The Express Tribune, June 24^th, 2013.