Quantcast
Channel: Karachista
Viewing all 413 articles
Browse latest View live

Rumour Epidemic

$
0
0
Have you heard? There's a rumour epidemic in town. Yesterday, when random firing broke out all over the city the rumour mill went into overdrive. As the afternoon progressed we saw petrol pumps and shops closing, firing around the city and tales of an indefinite strike. There were traffic jams as people rushed to get home and grocery stores were packed due to panic buying. This was all fact. What caused it all was something of a mystery. SMS, phone lines, whatsapp, twitter and facebook were abuzz . Sure people wanted to make sure loved ones were safe and warn friends to stay safe but suddenly all sorts of stories floating were floating around - most of which were pure nonsense.

For example, at various times yesterday I heard:-

- Farroq Sattar shot
- No, wait thats Farooq Sattar attacked, not sure of injuries
- Afaq Ahmed's brother kidnapped to be shot
- Grand Operation against terrorists started
- actual target of operation MQM which is why MQM closing everything down
- Sabzi Mandi on fire
- Dawn News repeatedly transmitting that 50 children have been kidnapped in the last week from posh schools in Clifton and Defence
- A black SUV is roaming Clifton and Defence since the last few weeks and kidnapping and raping women while filming the whole process for blackmail purposes
- 2 girls kidnapped in plain view outside cafe on Zamzama

Of all of those, only the Sabzi Mandi fire story checked out and even that seems to have had no sinister cause - apparently it was caused by a short circuit.

The last three stories were particularly pernicious because they've been doing the rounds for a few days. The head of Dawn TV laughed at the suggestion they'd transmit such nonsense. Most people passed on the message without checking with Dawn. Also, think about it - if 50, that's right FIFTY, kids had been kidnapped in a week in Clifton and Defence wouldn't ONE have made into all the newspapers?

The black SUV story has been terrifying women drivers for the last week. Everyone knows a friend of a friend who's been followed. Its with the cafe story however that the "friend of a friend" really starts causing trouble.

So we hear yesterday that two girls have been kidnapped outside a popular Zamzama cafe. Some disbelief exists so we phone the cafe. All they will confirm is that the cafe is closed and that's all they know. They refuse to comment on reports of firing on Zamzama. We decide this sounds very dodgy. Meanwhile a friend says that her friend's student's mum was in the cafe at the time and heard shots and that the guard had said that two girls were kidnapped in front of witnesses who were powerless to help. We decide that the cafe was being cagey because the kidnapping was fact. The story is passed on to friends and relatives. Then someone says that the CPLC and police have had no reports of a kidnapping. This is confirmed high up in the CPLC (Citizens Police Liason Committee - who do AMAZING work helping recover kidnap victims). So it was a hoax. Turns out another friend heard a variation of the story two days earlier - same cafe. This time the "friend of a friend" was in the cafe when armed gunmen came in looking for girls and dragged two out in front of shocked witnesses. All the elements of the kidnapping were different except the name of the cafe and the number of girls picked up. Another hoax.

By this time however, we are thinking "there's no smoke without fire". Those who can afford it have hired personal guards and it looks like many more women and children will be going around with personal guards than before. The rumour mongers succeed.

Yes, we live in uncertain times. Way too often the unbelievable rumours we hear turn out to be true, but seriously yesterday was ludicrous, scary, maddening and saddening.We must all refrain from passing on stories unless we've checked the source. Our sanity is at stake.

Amazing response

$
0
0
Thanks to everyone who liked and shared my post on the rumour epidemic. I'm overwhelmed by the response and flattered by the number of times it's been copy pasted on Facebook and whatsapp. It would have been nice if everyone who shared had mentioned karachista.blogspot.combecause my post turned up on the Facebook group We've had enoughattributed to someone else. Still, the important thing is that so many of you liked the message of the post enough to want to share it with others. Thanks again!

It's also posted on the Express Tribune blogshere. Watch for a follow up coming up soon.



Calling all "friends of friends"

$
0
0
So the Zamzama Cafe story apparently has wings. The latest rumour on the circuit is that one of the "kidnapped" girls has been shot. My sister-in-law heard it at a salon, a friend heard mothers discussing it school and its been doing the rounds of bbm groups. I've been assured by a trusted friend that one of her clients knows the family but is being very tight-lipped about the whole thing.

The comment from my very trusted friend was enough to shake my confidence that this story is a hoax. But consider the facts. There was one very dodgy incident at Dolmen Mall that may or may not have been a kidnapping attempt. There were reporters all over the place in minutes. The story was on every channel and in every paper. Eye-witnesses talked freely to the press. CCTV footage of the incident has been all over Facebook for days. So how could an incident have happened at a cafe like Butler's, on a street like Zamzama, and remained unreported?

Why would no witnesses have called the press? If the "friends of friends" who were in the cafe at the time aren't traceable by the press, why would none of the guards or drivers outside neighbouring shops speak up? Why would there not be CCTV footage from anywhere on Zamzama showing what happened. The cafe in question certainly has CCTV as do several other businesses.

If there was a kidnapping, the police would have been called. As reported in the Express Tribune today “Up till now, no one has approached us either directly or indirectly on this matter,” says Senior Superintendent Police (SSP) Clifton Nasir Aftab. “All we know is that there is fear among people who use social media websites.” Even if a senior officer had not gone on record with a categorical denial, are there no journalists giving "chai-pani" to police officers to tip them off about juicy stories?

If (Allah forbid) a girl who was kidnapped on Zamzama has actually DIED does she have no friends to put up memorials on Facebook, even if they didn't know exactly what had happened to her? Wouldn't there have been a funeral with distant relatives gossiping about what happened? We have many newspapers and umpteen TV channels? How could a story like this go unreported unless corroborative evidence was simply unavailable.

And yet, people feel there must be some truth to the story so here's the thing. I want to hear directly from these "friends of friends". If you were in the cafe at the time, please use the button below to contact me. If you know someone who was there, please persuade them to contact me. I promise on the sacred honour of journalists who have been jailed for protecting their sources that I will not divulge any names or details that would allow people to be identified. I just think its important to make sure that the real truth gets out there.

CONTACT ME





Lawn Wars - the story so far

$
0
0
Yes, a lot has been said on lawn and this is positively my last word on the subject this season. I stopped by Portia Fabrics for a quick survey on how this year's lawn offerings are doing. In case you somehow don't know, Portia Fabrics is one of the top stores for lawn in Karachi - one where almost everyone chooses to stock. It's almost April and well into lawn season here in the city by the sea. So who's hot and who's not?


 

Plenty of this design still available





Wellsurprisingly, considering we live in uncertain times, total sales are about the same as last year. So far at Portia this year's hottest sellers are Elan(few designs left), Sania Maskatiya(totally sold out) and Sana Safinaz who launched last of the three. Sana Safinaz, as always, have sold very well BUT haven't generated the same initial hysteria that they did last year. Three or four of their designs are sold out but there are a few pieces of most of the others available. Stacks of design 8 remain unsold but there's always one design that customers don't "get".

The key though with Sana Safinaz is that while people are still scrambling from pillar to post for "hot" designs like #11 below, sales of less popular designs remain steady and retailers know they will be sold out before long. 
Sana Safinaz designs 11a and 11b were hot sellers
This Farah Leghari design sold out - twice!


 

A surprise word of mouth hit is lawn newbie Farah Leghari, whose media launch is today. Her designs in collaboration with Gohar Textiles have been flying off the shelves.








Umar Sayeed has also sold steadily as have Zara Shahjehan and surprisingly Ittehad. At their exhibition, sales of Fahad Hussayn’s designs were nothing to write home about - apart from a few designs like this, which actually had to be taken off a dummy for an eager customer.




 
Since the exhibition however they’ve sold steadily in a retail setting. In fact this seems to be a trend for many designers. Customers are holding off on impulse buys at exhibitions and then buying at leisure from retailers. 




My favourite Nida Azwer lawn
The exceptions are of course fashion darlings Elan, Sania Maskatiya and Nida Azwer who saw mass sales at their exhibitions. Whilst my personal favourite was Sania Maskatiya, Nida’s collection was a disappointment because of the fabric. Don’t get me wrong. I LOVE Nida’s work and her lawn collection was fun, quirky and stylish. I adored the little “Nida Azwer” stamped buttons and the attention to detail on each outfit. The designs with lawn dupattas were sensibly priced at Rs3500 and the more elaborate outfits were reasonable at Rs5450. The colour palette was sophisticated and the overall look was great – except for the fabric. It just didn’t have that buttery sheen that the best lawn has and after dithering for ages over a blue Iznik pottery jora, I decided to pass. I am however in the minority. Overall the collection was a huge hit and Ensemble One at Dolmen had a mere handful of joras left yesterday from Nida’s lawn collection. If however I’d managed to get hold of a Phoenix Rust (design 6A) I would have bought in spite of the fabric because it was simply soooo pretty.



A lot of my friends claimed that they won’t be buying lawns this year for various reasons ranging from “I kept running into aunties wearing the same jora” to “Lawns have just got too busy and fussy”. I definitely disliked some lawn collections this year and yet it seems that there’s a market for even the most garish joras. And like every year, ladies are picking up five or six joras at a time. At an average of Rs5000 or more for designer lawn, we’re not talking peanuts. 


Unsold J.J.Valaya joras
 

Not everyone has sold well. J.J.Valaya was overpriced; Rs7,500 for some joras on the first day of the exhibition after which they reduced prices to Rs6,500. This may be the reason for the piles of unsold joras. Seems there is a limit to what the lawn buying public will swallow after all!










Sweet Sensations

$
0
0
 
-->

I’m writing this on a massive sugar high after the delicious SWOT dessert-off which was held at The Lantern Chinese restaurant today. All my dietary good intentions evaporated in the face of the likes of Ferrero-Rocher Brownies and Mini Sticky Toffee puddings. Admittedly this was pretty much what I expected when I decided to attend SWOT’s third such event.

Scrumptious Truffles
SWOT is one of Karachi’s biggest Foodie groups on Facebook, with almost 8000 members. It’s an open forum for members to review all sorts of commercially available food in Karachi and is a great place to get honest feedback from like-minded people on restaurants and caterers. Whether you’re craving halva poori or sushi, there’ll be foodies ready to point you to the best in Karachi.
So many delicious things to choose from
The SWOT dessert-off is an event aimed at promoting home based bakers and caterers. Basically participants bring in two or three desserts in bite-sized portions and people pay Rs500 a head to try the desserts and vote for their favourites. The top three bakers share all the proceeds. It sounds like a dessert-lovers dream come true, especially as some of the best bakers in Karachi work from home. In actual fact it is pretty amazing. There were lots of yummy desserts to try from some fabulous bakers. The trouble is that to rate the participants, you have to try everything. After the fourth or fifth dessert even the sweetest tooth starts to feel less enthusiastic. After the eleventh or twelfth, tasting can become a little taxing. Still everyone persevered as the participants had made a fantastic effort and for the most part even when your stomach was saying “no”, your eyes were saying, “yes”!

By all accounts this year’s dessert-off was a little smaller than previous years’, with only seven participants. However with two or three desserts each, there were still enough desserts to make tasting everything a challenge. Bearing in mind that we eat with our eyes, the marks were split equally between presentation and taste.
 Presentation varied wildly from the very polished to basic home-style. Taste-wise, the competition was much closer as the overall standard was very high.

Lovely presentation by Smackin' Treats



Smackin’ Treats were undoubtedly the best when it came to presentation, with perfect little desserts on a lovely little black and white baroque stand and lovely sparkly little labels with the names of the desserts. They had made strawberry chocolate mousse tarts, lemon poppy seed cakes and pistachio white chocolate truffles.

Lemon Poppy Seed Cupcakes
All three looked simply wonderful but the mousse lacked the chocolate hit and texture I was looking for. The lemon poppy seed cupcake was delicious, wonderfully lemony but could have been a little lighter. The balance of flavours was almost perfect, but Smackin’ Treats was up against some pretty stiff competition. They eventually took third prize.

Taha's Chocomania was the winner of the competition

Oriental Dessert by Taha
The ultimate winner was Taha’s Choco Mania whose desserts also looked incredibly professional, little pieces of perfection that simply screamed “eat me”. Their oriental dessert was deceptively simple cup of fruit and custardy cream but it was simply sublime. The “custard” was actually a yoghurt based gelatine concoction but you would have sworn it was cream.  It was light, fresh and not too sweet; a million miles from the packet custard monstrosities you find on buffets and the perfect foil to the fresh strawberries and kiwi.  Taha also offered some deeply chocolately Ferrero Rocher brownies. He is somewhat famous for his brownies and rightly so as these were totally yum, rich and intense. His lemon Philly cheesecake bites were also pretty good, but I’m not a great fan of set cheesecakes. Give me the New York style baked cheesecakes any day.
My personal favourite participant of the day was Mad Hatter’s Tea Room who won second place in the competition. Roomana Nasir of MHTR had brought in Mini Sticky Toffee Puddings and Mini Chocolate covered choux buns filled with Crème Patisserie.


Runner-up Mad Hatter's Tea Room offered Sticky Toffee Puddings with extra sauce - my favourite dessert of the day!

Delicious Choux buns by Mad Hatter's Tea Room

The presentation was simple but polished. I particularly liked the little candle burner of extra sauce for the sticky toffee puddings. What I loved however was taste. The choux pastry was simply perfect as was the crème patisserie. The mini sticky toffee puddings were possibly the best dessert of the day. Subtly spiced and light, with a lovely warm toffee sauce they were out of this world. I even went back for a second one at the end, which just shows how good they were because by that point even my sweet tooth was ready to wave a white flag.




Another participant whose desserts tasted incredible was Mikashes Kitchen, who in fact won a token prize. Mikashes lost out on presentation, as their desserts looked very amateurish and obviously homemade. Their Sandtorte was a home-style confection of fresh fruit biscuit and cream that tasted lovely but attracted few because it simply looked like a dish of cream. Mikashes delight was a lovely rich desi-style cooked milk  dessert, somewhere between a halva and a barfi. It was studded with nuts and coconut and was simply delectable. It would have been nice if it could somehow have been presented in bite-sized pieces in pretty wrappers.

Mekashes' Delight

Naghma’s cakes looked very pretty although the cupcakes did need a little more care during transportation.

Naghma's cupcakes

 Naghma's blueberry cheesecake tasted marvellous
Her blueberry cheesecake was light and tasty and looked wonderful too. It was very moreish and I would have gone back for more if I hadn’t already been stuffed to the gills.
Nibbles and Cupcakeology hadn’t yet made it to the event when I left at 5 o’clock so I have no pics or review of them. The event was originally billed as starting at three, though this was later amended to 4 so really all participants should have been there by that time. I was told that both did arrive later but it would have been nice if they had been punctual enough to give everyone a chance of sampling their wares.

Overall SWOT’s dessert off was a great chance to try out some new bakers and confectioners. It wasn’t quite what I expected however considering that SWOT is such a large foodie group. I would have loved to see some of the more senior home based bakers and caterers showcasing their wares too. Among others I really missed Aysha Jamil of Sprinkles and Fatemah Rawjiwho are the people I would order from if I wanted something that looked and tasted “wow”. I would also have liked to try things from some of the people SWOT members’ recommend on the group; bakers like Mavmade and The Anti-CupcakeSociety

Philly Lemon Cheesecakes by winner Taha


My other crib is that, while The Lantern staff was very accommodating, it wasn’t perhaps the best choice of venue for the event. The restaurant is a tiny intimate restaurant and for an event like this you really need more space. It also doesn’t serve tea or coffee so it was impossible to order the perfect foil to all those yummy cakes. Some people were happy to order hot spicy starters to counterbalance the delicious desserts on offer. However, I really felt short changed in not being able to savour a cappuccino with my sticky toffee pudding and a light refreshing tea would have been the perfect palate cleanser between tastings. I hope next time the event is at a venue that offers a full range of hot beverages so everyone can order their own perfect match to all goodies on offer.

That said, it was a fun and delicious event and I met some wonderful, passionate home bakers that will definitely make in into my phonebook. Well done SWOT. I'll be sending you the bill for my upgraded gym membership. My poor waistline may never recover.











Fashion Week Pakistan 2013 – FPW 5 – Fashion Overload

$
0
0
-->
Deepak Perwani with his brilliant "Frieda goes to Kharadar" collection at FPW 2013
Last week Fashion Week hit Karachi. With 25 designers in two days, Pakistan Fashion Council’s fifth Fashion Pakistan Week (FPW) was a whirlwind.

Sana Safinaz's accessories were as eye-catching as their outfits
It had all the elements of the best fashion weeks: the red carpet glamour, the high-strung designers, the PR bandwagon, the rumours and dramas and the flights of fashion brilliance. Unfortunately it also had far too many also-rans, horribly late-running shows and conspicuous absentees from amongst fashion’s glitterati.

The Wall Street journal with a picture of a model backstage in Maheen Karim
That said, kudos to the Pakistan Fashion Council for going ahead with the event after having had to delay it because of the unsettled situation in Karachi.  Of course this created problems. Unavailability of dates at the preferred venue meant that a three-day schedule had to be squeezed into a marathon two days. Also FPW ended up being numbingly close to Bridal Couture Week and PFDC’s Fashion Week in Lahore. Still, it was wonderful to see Karachi in the news for a positive reason. Pictures of FPW have been picked up the Wall Street Journal and other international news sites, which is marvellous as Pakistan needs all the positive publicity it can get.

What wasn’t so great was the number of mediocre collections. While FPW specifically aims to promote aspiring fashion talent along with senior designers, the editing process needs to be stronger. If a designer is not up to scratch their collections should not make it to the ramp. By all means, mentor young talent but don’t promote mediocrity. It tarnishes everything else being shown and damages the credibility of FPW as a whole.
Model Nadia Hussain in Shamaeel Ansari's ethereal Orient collection

It does however seem a little churlish to crib when some of the founding members of Fashion Pakistan Council produced such stellar collections for FPW.  Chairperson Shamaeel Ansari's Orient collection was simply to-die-for. Deliciously detailed, subtle yet striking the pieces were nothing less than works of art.


A gorgeous Deepak Perwani sari




Deepak Perwani's playful, brilliant, colourful collection, “Frieda goes to Kharadar” was exceptional from concept to execution.   


The way he styled the models as transvestites, with joining eyebrows and bright red lipstick to mirror his digital prints was inspired and one of my favourite moments of FPW.


















Models showcasing Maheen Khan's "Flight" collection based on endangered birds
Maheen Khan’s Flight collection was a typically flawless interpretation of an inspired theme. From the Phillip Treacy-esque headgear to the feathery prints the collection gelled in a way that few other designers can hope to match. The silhouettes were fabulously wearable, a feat that few managed to marry with high fashion.

Farishteh Aslam, Maheen Khan, Aamna Haider Isani and Frieha Altaf
St. Tropez, Sana Safinaz style.  The second model sports the same necklance that Aamna Haider Isani wore



Sana Safinaz have been creating a buzz for weeks with the opening of their proposed retail outlets. Many wondered if the lovely little number on Frieha Altaf above would be available at their stores. That remains to be seen but the fab necklace sported by Aamna Haider Isani featured in their collection and will definitely be available in-store. Oh and by the way, it seems the first store will open on 24th April. Get ready for a stampede.
As for Sana Safinaz’s actual collection, it was a finely judged juxtaposition of boho chic and western evening glamour. The accessories were highlighted quite as much as the clothes themselves, and it does appear that the retail stores could be Pakistan’s answer to Topshop.

Sania Maskatiya may be a relative newcomer on the fashion scene but she certainly ranks among Pakistani fashion royalty. She received the dubious honor of another designer being “inspired” by one of her previous collections. If any other proof was needed of Sania being one of the driving forces of the industry, this was it.

Sania Maskatiya's tapered silk pants were immediately on everyone's wishlist

Her own eagerly awaited collection Naqsh was young, fresh and assured. Her tapered printed pants are set to become a wardrobe staple. The digital prints were intricate and inspired while her sweeping change of silhouette is bound to inspire many.

Nauman Arfeen's beautifully styled "Sands of Time" collection
There was much more to love about FPW. Amongst the menswear, one of my favourites with Nauman Arfeen . His well-conceived, cohesive collection was crisply tailored and very attractive.

Arsalan & Yaseer Kashmiri Jacket
A Bottega-weave jacket by Arsalan & Yaseer


I also adored Arsalan and Yahseer’s collection, which was quite as sharply tailored and similarly strong. Their Kashmiri embroidered jackets were gorgeous. Menswear they may have been but I instantly wanted one.

Fashion Pakistan Council is working hard to promote new talent, to create synergies between industry and designers such as the partnership between Adnan Pardesy and Kayseria which produced a fun, trendy collection. Similarly Jafferjees collaborated with the talented Warda Saleem to produce outfits to show off their accessories.
Kayseria's bright summery collection

Warda Saleems's subtle chic for Jafferjees
Gul Ahmed showcasing their lawn also produced a surprisingly good segment with funky fashionable cuts. They showed that perhaps lawn does have a place on the catwalk.
Gul Ahmed used volume to showcase their pretty prints

There were also flashes of brilliance among the newer designers, particularly Aamna Aqeel, Ayesha Hasan and Zari Faisal.
Eye-catching designs from some of fashion's bright young designers.

There was no one newcomer, however, who excited in the way that brilliant previous FPW debutants like Misha Lakhani did. Similarly, there were many that were missed on the catwalk. I would have loved to see Layla Chatoor , Sanam Agha, Sonya Battla, Shehla Chatoor and Maheen Karim showing at FPW.

Amna Kardar in Shehla Chatoor (including shoes!)


Young stars like Nida Azwer and Misha Lakhani would have added much to the event. Admittedly some of these designers are showing at PFDC Fashion Week very soon but the established designers section of FPW lacked depth. Hats off to Sana Safinaz and Sania Maskatiya who are somehow managing to do BOTH fashion weeks.

Overloaded and over-tiring it may have been, but FPW was a rocking start to a very busy month of fashion. The list of designers may have needed editing but amongst all the chaff FPW showcased some truly fabulous collections. It highlighted some great new trends and set fashion lovers busy overhauling their wardrobes. Kudos to Shamaeel Ansari and her great team.


All pics courtesy the fabulous Faisal Farooqui at Dragonfly (except those watermarked Karachista which are my own)










Maheen Karim and Sanam Chaudri launch pret lines for Bonanza - Pakistani High Street Fashion takes off

$
0
0

Maheen Karim chanelling the Black & White trend

 My next post was sooo going to be about something other than fashion but it is such a busy month fashion-wise. Besides I do so love fashion and some of my favourite designers have been very busy indeed. Today saw the launch of pret by Maheen Karim and Sanam Chaudri for Bonanza.

 This Maheen Karim outfit was selling out fast
This collaboration has been generating a buzz in fashion circles for months now. Bonanza has an extensive retail network in Pakistan while Maheen and Sanam are some of Pakistan’s “Bright Young Things” of Fashion. Surely a marriage made in heaven, with retail firepower meeting high fashion.

One of several exciting “high-street fashion” lines launched by top designers, these two lines by Bonanza are part of a sea of change that is freeing fashion lovers from the torturous process of trying to explain fashion concepts to darzis (tailors).
Maheen Karim in my fave design
So today’s launch saw each designer launch a total of seven designs in a variety of colours. Maheen's line was attractive and most pieces had a fab luxurious vibe. She played with both colour and cut and produced some striking designs. When we spoke she explained that she had personally taken charge of the line from fabric and prints to cuts and execution. She herself wore a gorgeous piece that everyone had their eyes on.


She showed a mixture of longer and shorter lengths and had included a pretty "cape over a shorter shirt" combination that looked great once worn. Hopefully they'll display it on a dummy in store because it was one of those designs that looks distinctly underwhelming on the hanger.

Three very different Maheen Karim designs


Maheen Karim's set also included a couple of simpler long shirts with printed collars and cuffs with a little embroidery. While theses were pretty and wearable, I felt that her other designs were stronger. I feel this line should push the envelope as Bonanza is already doing a lot of "pretty and wearable" outfits in their "Satrangi" line which has a wide range of designs available in-store.

Sanam Chaudri at the launch (from her twitter)
Sanam Chaudri's clothes were comparatively edgier, with a couple of eye-catching silver studded designs. The cut of one of these designs was a little too tent-like but the other was very sleek if a little too simple. Someone wearing it at the launch had jazzed it up with a pretty scarf which took the outfit to a new level. She also showed some pretty embroidered pieces and shorter kurtas. Her colour palette was bold with bright fuschia and turquoise. Her cuts may not be everyone's cup of tea, particularly as she included too many unstructured pieces. On the whole however I think she admirably hit the brief of offering something a little different from the run-of-the-mill pret usually available in this price range.

Each design by both designers will have a production of 80-100 pieces initially. The designers will be sending new designs to stores every couple of weeks. They will be available at 4 Bonanza stores to begin with: Zamzama and Dolmen Mall in Karachi, one in Lahore and one in Islamabad.

Starting at Rs3500, the designs are wearable, versatile and varied. They will be available in sizes from Small through to Extra Large, which Maheen Karim says uses the same sizing techniques as her general line.

Ayesha Farooq Hashwani in Sanam Chaudri (pic from Sanam's twitter)
Organised by Catalyst PR, the launch was buzzing. It was particularly lovely to see Ayesha Farooq Hashwani and Sania Maskatiya wearing designs from the new ranges. I love the way the new crop of designers support each other – so positive and rather sweet.

All pics my own unless otherwise stated


FPW Trend Report - as published in the Daily Times SUNDAY magazine - the last of Fashion Pakistan Week

$
0
0
Published on 21st April in Sunday for The Daily Times, Pakistan






Welcome to SanaSafinaz-land - SanaSafinaz give a preview of their new chic store at Dolmen Mall, Karachi

$
0
0

 This article was first published on 25th April 2013 inThe Express Tribune
You could have been on Bond Street. Sana Safinaz held a media preview at their new Dolmen Mall store that enthralled even the most jaded media types and socialites. Pitched as Pakistan’s answer to Topshop and Zara, the store offers an exciting mix of pret wear and accessories.
 The store concept and pricing policy may be high street but the feel of the Dolmen Mall store is pure high-end luxury boutique. With its chic black and white theme, blue and white urns and clean lines the boutique is an oasis of contemporary luxury. The racks are gloriously uncluttered unlike the “crammed to bursting point” racks in many local stores. With its stylish glass display cases and spacious seating, the ambience of the boutique is more Gucci than Topshop.
There was a doubt in some people’s minds that Sana Safinaz would pitch their retail outlet solely at the western wearing crowd but this smart couple knows their market too well. While the store does have an extensive western and fusion range, the bulk of their pret is pretty, wearable and unashamedly eastern. There’s something for everyone, from the lunching “aunties” to trendy college chicks. Sana Safinaz have put together a design team headed by Ather Hafeez to handle the pret a porter line for the store. While Ather Hafeez’s touch is clear, it is obvious that Sana Safinaz have kept a close eye on things as overall the collection has the unmistakable Sana Safinaz signature.
The store is sophisticated, stylish and endlessly fascinating
 Sana Safinaz had promised a high street shopping model and they were true to their word. The pricing wasn’t complete but the outfits what were priced were very reasonable. Elegant, attractive joras with that indefinable Sana Safinaz aesthetic in the same price range as Khaddi or Sheep? No wonder people were pinching themselves to check whether they were dreaming. More than one person opined that they’d be queuing up on opening day, leading some to speculate that the store would be trashed in the sort of stampede that used to accompany Sana Safinaz’s lawn exhibitions. No chance of that however – there’ll be a queuing system with only 40 people allowed in-store at a time to allow customers to shop in peace. For those not in Karachi, Lahore or Islamabad their retail line will be available online in about a month. New designs will hit the stores every two weeks.
Pretty, pretty, pretty

Belts galore
Styling Tips
While the clothes had fashionistas drooling it was the accessories that almost stole the show. Pretty chappal, belts and scarves drew the eye. Several fashion lovers decided on the spot to start wearing scarves on their wrists. The statement necklaces simply screamed, “buy me”. There was a wide collection of bags, from outsize clutches to totes. There was a Chanel-inspired cross-body quilted purse in bright yellow and gorgeous version of iconic Alexander McQueen knuckle-duster clutch. Make no mistake – these were not “fakes” or copies of the originals. The bags simply used design elements of the originals. It was all very Topshop and in the best possible taste.
Sana Safinaz may be the first big name designers to venture into the retail market for accessories but what they are doing is not entirely new. There are several local stores offering high quality bags inspired by big-name western designers. Pedro does a lovely version of the sought-after Celine Luggage Tote while Charles and Keith is known for sailing close to the wind with its versions of designer purses. The Hub similarly produces its own version of designer originals. Similarly Accessorize offers a wide range of Boho-chic accessories. Nadia Kassim has done some excellent Jimmy Choo-inspired chappal.
The talented duo
However what makes the Sana Safinaz line of accessories so covetable is their taste. Sana Safinaz have always based their brand on what they would wear themselves. They have put together a collection that looks intensely high fashion. The quality of every piece is exceptional. No one else is doing the sort of statement necklaces and iconic belts that are on display at Sana Safinaz. Their choice of prints for their scarves is super chic. Their high-end customers may carry the original bags, but there will be plenty of takers for the Sana Safinaz knuckle duster. That said, it would be nice to see Sana Safinaz venture into their own line of unique shoes and bags, stamping their own signature on an original line.
All in all though, Sana Safinaz’s retail store is simply superb. Sophisticated, stylish and endlessly fascinating. Fashion lovers get ready for a fantastic shopping experience.


For more in-store pics visit Karachista's Facebook page.

PSFW - PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week Starts Today - What to expect and who to watch out for

$
0
0

Soooo excited about PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week that starts TODAY. Stellar line up with some of my fave designers – couldn’t make it to Lahore this time so will be following virtually on live streaming and twitter (#PSFW). Also have plenty of spies who’ve promised me all the gossip and comments which are too spicy or catty for twitter. Not the same as actually being there, but the next best thing.

A first glimpse of the set courtesy PFDC

So what to expect? Well, there’s already a lot to be excited about with all the sneak peeks and teasers out there, especially in Karachi thank to the marvelous Secret Closet. One exciting development is that lots of designers are doing in-house accessories to style their collections. From Misha Lakhani's skinny belts to Shehla Chatoor's metallic accessories, designers are taking Pakistani fashion to a new level.
Scarf and clutch from Layla Chatoor's Ayesha collection
A lot of  top designers are having an Orientalism moment. They’re playing with fab prints based on everything from the Renaissance architecture (Sheyla Chatoor) to William Morgan Pottery (Nida Azwer). Sania Maskatiya and Misha Lakhani are drawing on themes from Renaissance, Persian and Moghul pottery and architecture. Layla Chatoor was inspired by a vintage South Asian scene from the Victoria and Albert Museum while Faiza Samee has drawn on Central Asian weaves and vintage Russian Chintz. Khadija Shah of Elan will be using Chinoiserie-style prints with birds, flowers and the like to showcase her theme “Ode to a Nightingale”.
Nida Azwer's prints and pottery inspiration courtesy secretcloset.pk

Don’t expect any sort of uniformity because these stellar designers each have their own strong signature sense of style. Orientalism by Misha Likhani will be a world away from a variation on the theme by Shehla Chatoor. Do expect a very modern take from them all, with interesting cuts, variety and plenty of chic sexiness. Nevertheless there’s something ironic about modern Pakistani designers being inspired by historic western architecture, pottery and textiles that were in turn inspired by the Orient, which includes everything from Arabia to Asia.




The prints theme continues in other ways. Fahad Hussayn has used silk prints and metallic embroidery to illustrate his vision of “Praxus”, imaginary warriors who fight for love. 
Fahad Hussayn's Praxus

Tapu Javeri has taken of his phtographs and transform them into wearable art in the form of bags, clothes and scarves. He has four capsule collections each interpreted by a star designer.

Some designers are going their own route. Master of subtlety Rizwan Beyg is doing a RANGG collection based on Truck Art. You can’t help but be intrigued. Karma’s collection is called Gatsby – think 1920’s and gorgeous Art Deco detailing with pearls and fringes.
Ali Xeeshan is doing a patriotic and pertinent Jalsa collection.
Ali Xeeshan's all white Jalsa collection
 Expect the emerging talent showcase to also show plenty of diversity from Mahgul’s Archive collection to Mohsin Ali’s Basket Weave collection.

Then there’s the glamour contingent with their evening gowns, jumpsuits and sexy cuts. Maheen Karim’s Paradis collection will be one to watch, based on abstract vibrant prints. SanaSafinaz are doing a continuation of the boho-chic /St. Tropez collection they introduced at FPW. Ayesha Farooq Hashwani’s cruise collection will showcase her cutting skills in a vibrant colour palette. The one to watch however will be HSY with his “Believe” collection in conjunction with Italian watchmaker ToyWatch. Expect drop dead gorgeous glamour and intricate luxury.
There are plenty more designers on the program and everyone will have their chance to impress. The excitement is building. Fasten your seatbelts everyone, PSFW is all set to go!

The cliche of the Pakistani Terrorist - Karachista for the Express Tribune

$
0
0
Published in The Express Tribune on 28th April 2013, pictures as per The Express Tribune online

It may have been the Saudis who were responsible for 9/11 but Al-Qaeda had undoubted links in Pakistan
KARACHI: I bet you never knew there was a Beatles song that goes, Don’t dig no Pakistanis taking all the people’s jobs. Actually I would be surprised if you had ever heard it. The peace-loving band that produced hits such as Let it Be, had satirically aimed the song at racist politicians such as Enoch Powell who, back in the ‘60s, campaigned vigorously against immigration.
Fearing that the satirical song could become a racist anthem, they never released it and ended up changing the lyrics entirely. The “Paki” immigrants invoked by the song were one image of Pakistanis that pervaded the public conscious at the time. Another was of the corner-shop-owning Pakistani, who works all hours in pursuit of a better life. Both stereotypes were undoubtedly real though barely representative of us as a nation. But between them and our cricketers, we as a nation had a fairly positive image in the minds of people at large as a hardworking, somewhat mercurial race. Post 9/11, all that has changed.
It may have been the Saudis who were responsible for 9/11, but Al-Qaeda had undoubted links in Pakistan. It was British Pakistanis who were responsible for the London bombings. Osama Bin Laden was found in Pakistan. The would-be New York bomber was a Pakistani. It’s a damning list. Hearing about the Boston Marathon bombing, the first thought most Pakistanis probably had was, “Please don’t let it have been a Pakistani who did this”.
9
And yet, these violent terrorists are no more representative of our nation than the gun-toting lunatics who kill school children are representative of America. In the last two years, America has seen the Tuscon shooting, the Aurora Movie theatre shooting and the Sandy Hook Elementary School shooting. Yet Americans aren’t invariably portrayed as gun-toting lunatics.
Conversely, it is difficult to find a portrayal of Pakistanis in popular culture other than as terrorists. Whether it’s in the GI Joe sequel or Agent Vinod, the only Pakistan we see in films or on TV is a dangerous place. Where are the urbane Pakistani doctors and the vain fashionistas who think a Birkin is a substitute for a personality? Where are the jetsetting bon-viveurs, the ordinary conservative Pakistanis and the misfit second generation immigrants?
Eastenders, a British Soap Opera, is an exception in that it had Pakistani characters from 2007 to 2013, none of whom were involved in terrorism. Of course being a soap opera, the characters were involved in story lines that covered everything from domestic violence to embezzlement, but at least there was no terrorism.

It’s bad enough that there is rarely anything positive about Pakistan that is considered news-worthy. India gets features about its fashion and glamour as well as feel-good stories to counter the stories of rape and corruption that also hit the news. Pakistan, on the other hand, suffers from negative reporting from even respected broadcasters like the BBC. Less reputable but still popular broadcasters like Fox News have no compunction in painting us as black as sin, jettisoning accuracy in the pursuit of their own agenda.

In this environment, it’s a shame that the usually liberal, free-thinking types that make up the entertainment industry, can’t find positive images of Pakistan to use in their art — whether it’s music, film or canvas. We ourselves have produced some cracking novelists and musicians but our own film industry is a crippled mess. The renaissance in our television production has put across various positive images of Pakistan but this has a limited audience.
So it’s the ordinary Pakistanis who get a double whammy. We are the ones who have suffered the most at the hands of terrorists and yet, abroad, we are lumped together with the fanatics. We may be conservationists or teachers, artists or financial wizards but to most of the world, we are all terrorists.

PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week Report - PSFW Part 1

$
0
0
-->

The beautiful intricacy of Elan's Ode To A Nightingale Collection
PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week (PSFW) is finally over and what a marathon extravaganza it was. Anyone who chose to watch all the shows - nearly 50 shows in four days - would probably be comatose by now. Even those of us who sensibly limited ourselves to the luxury pret, ignoring the lawn and high street brands, have had a grueling four days. Watching that many shows was tough enough – kudos to the poor models who actually did all the work.
I had originally intended to do one big blog post about the whole event but with so many designers showing it makes more sense to split my coverage into two and give the collections I liked a more detailed review.
Shehla Chatoor wows with Renaissance Prints
 The first two days showcased several star designers and contained both fashion highs and lows. They also demonstrated that classic conundrum of the Pakistani fashion scene – the Lahore/Karachi divide. There was a massive difference between the way both press and public from the two cities reacted to collections. This was borne out at the venue, on twitter and in the subsequent press reporting both in print and online.
Part of this was due to a significantly different aesthetic in the two cities. Karachi-ites see themselves as more sophisticated and Lahoris as garish. Conversely Lahoris view Karachi-ites as bland and prefer their fashion to make a bold statement. In actual fact there is room in the fashion world for both the subtle and the flamboyant. When done well, both can be sublime.
What was irritating and unacceptable was the partisanship shown. How can one designer be deemed to have over-the-top embellishment when the same reporter lavishes praise on a much more elaborate collection? There are certainly senior journalists like Muniba Kamal and Aamna Haider Isani  (among others) who can be counted on to give an informed and impartial opinion. I’ll try to emulate their example rather than that of the many who allow their loyalties to cloud their judgement. Also I did live in Lahore for 5 years, which is almost as long as I’ve lived in Karachi so maybe I can avoid the city politics.
So back to the fashion! There was plenty to love on the first two days of PSFW. In no particular order here are some of my favourites:-
Delicate Prints by Elan

Elan's opulent embroidery




















Elan’s Ode to a Nightingale collection was an opulent oriental-themed collection. A friend may have quipped that they are tired of Chinoiserie but Khadija Shah’s unique take was attractive and imaginative. I wasn’t a fan of her one-print pant/top combinations but some of her silhouettes were excellent and the overall impression was one of grace and luxury. My first Elan show and I have to say I can understand why so many people love Khadijah Shah. I’m definitely a convert. 
Shehla's prints were exceptional

Elegant draping & accessories by Shehla
Shehla’s Soigne collection was very true to Shehla’s sense of style and included sexy gowns, elegant draping and gorgeous gold accessories. It showcased her Versace-esque approach to fashion and used some exceptional digital prints to great effect. Shehla was one of the first to start producing in-house branded accessories and these perfectly complemented her collection. From the gladiator shoes to logo stamped necklaces, the attention to detail was marked.

Sublime by Sara - A nod to Freida?
Sublime by Sara Shahid showed a workman-like, solid collection called Now. It displayed versatility and skill, with Sara’s own take on many trends including high-waisted pants, stripes and fluorescent colours. A few pieces showed an echo of Sania Maskatiya’s Naqsh collection, particularly in terms of silhouette, while a striped jumpsuit with colourful florals seemed to be a nod to Deepak Perwani’s Frieda. Nevertheless it was an intensely wearable, bang on-trend collection with a strong sense of Sublime’s easy chic.

Misha's subtle charm

Misha Lakhani produced a sophisticated elegant collection that had an easy charm to it. Her silhouettes were attractive and artistic. She does however need to work on her ramp presentation. The collection lacked the necessary styling and drama to make an impression on the ramp, particularly in the face of such stiff competition. 


Tapu Javeri’s gorgeous prints from his photographs deserve a mention. The prints had been worked into bags and scarves while four designers had put together capsule collections using the prints. The clothes by Adnan Pardesy, Rizwan Beyg, Wardha Saleem and Sadaf Malaterre showed off some vibrant fascinating prints that were truly Tapulicious.
This reversible jacket by Sania Maskatiya is high on my wishlist
Sania's version of the "Lacha" skirt
Sania Maskatiya is undoubtedly the queen of retail luxury pret - a trend setter and game changer. With Aghaaz she gave us her version of a “resort” collection rather than the pret-focused Naqsh. Being Sania however this was resort-wear that sits comfortably with Eastern sensibilities rather than the very revealing outfits that some chose to show. This doesn’t mean that Sania played safe – these clothes were not the versions of her prints that average clients will be clamouring to buy. It was modern creative Eastern pret. Her peep shoulder tops and reversible jackets were wearable yet sassy.  She continued with her theme from FPW of statement pants and shorter hemlines. Her modern version of the long pleated “Lacha”, a skirt from rural Punjab, will find its way into many wardrobes. The styling of her was much better than at FPW thanks to consultations with top stylist Maha Burney. All in all a strong showing from a gifted young designer.


Barcode print by Feeha
Feeha Jamshed is another talent young designer who managed to impress. Her all black and white collection showed great range and creativity. The collection could easily have turned into a sea of black and white but the variety she displayed turned into a cohesive collection with great impact.
Fahad Hussayn - virtually a triumph of styling over substance
 Fahad Hussayn’s show was dramatic with his bizarre bird hats almost eclipsing what was actually a very creative collection. He used whites, golds and prints in an avante-garde collection packed with interest. The styling may have masked the collection’s lack of a strong insignia but it also detracted from beauty of some of clothes themselves. It was however a very entertaining show.
Is it a bird? Is it plane? Or a rather interesting Fahad gown?

Black & White, AFH Style
AFH's easy elegance
 




















Ayesha Farook Hashwani was another designer who knows what she does best. Her flowing silhouettes were alluring and glamorous and she used shaded monochromatic fabrics to great effect. However her embellished pants looked a little contrived and I would have liked the collection to make a stronger statement as a whole.
I’m afraid that for me the rest are simply also-rans. There were sparks of real originality and often the effort that had gone into collections was palpable but in this field you had to be at the top of your game to make an impression. 
Tune in tomorrow for more on PSFW.

All photos courtesy the fabulous Faisal Farooqui and his team at Dragonfly



PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week - covering PSFW online -Article for the Express Tribune

$
0
0
Published in The Express Tribune on 2nd May 2013 - on covering PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week online

PSFW: Reporting fashion — one tweet at a time

Misha Lakhani, Sania Maskatiya. PHOTOS: SHIAFIQ MALIK/EXPRESS
KARACHI: A fashion week creates buzz like nothing else — the celebrities, the dramas, the gossip and of course the fashion. Reviewing it online via live stream and Twitter couldn’t be the same — I was expecting a very bland experience. No chats with the movers and shakers of the business, no people-watching and none of that peripheral experience that adds to the charm of a fashion week. How wrong I was!
Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PFDC) Sunsilk Fashion Week’s live streaming worked almost without a hitch, but what made the experience amazing was live tweeting from the venue. Lots of bloggers posted pictures of who was wearing what and also tweeted about the ambience. Most of the major players were tweeting in real-time during shows and this along, with private messages from close friends on-site, made virtual reporting a treat. The only thing I missed was trying out the Magnum bar and getting my hands on some of the goody bags.
PSFW was the most hyped fashion week of the year. Its stellar line up had fashion-lovers drooling and designers looking over their shoulders at the competition. Day 3, in particular, had Rizwan Beyg, SanaSafinaz, Layla Chatoor, Nida Azwer and Karma. Designers had to be on top of their game to make an impression.

Layla Chatoor , Karma. PHOTOS: SHIAFIQ MALIK/EXPRESS
So, the question is: did it live up to the hype? Not quite! There was a lot to love about PSFW; although there was marvelous fashion, a few major names disappointed and there was a glaring divide that was hard to ignore. There was a huge gap between two distinct interpretations of what luxury prêt should be. For one camp luxury prêt was all about experimenting with prints, cuts and silhouettes. There was embellishment, but it definitely took a back seat. For others, however, luxury prêt was all about embroidery and bling — that, too, lots of it. For the Pakistani market, as a whole, neither camp was wrong but it made reviewing PSFW an uphill task — a case of comparing apples to oranges.
There were also several standout collections. Rizwan Beyg’s collection was one of the most stylish renditions of truck art ever.
SanaSafinaz’s sensual sophisticated collection, with Balenciaga-inspired jackets and embellished pants, was a major hit. Karma’s Art Deco Gatsby collection was cohesive, blingy and beautiful. It was also one of the best-styled ramp shows.
Fahad Hussayn and Ali Xeeshan, however, were a triumph of styling over everyone else. I loved what I could see of the clothes but the dramatics eclipsed the clothes to a degree. HSY’s show strayed into this territory though his glamorous sexy yet unmistakably Eastern prêt was a treat.

Élan’s opulent Oriental collection and Shehla Chatoor’s alluring Soigné collection were detailed and masterful. Sania Maskatiya and Maheen Karim produced brilliant chic resort collections. Layla Chatoor’s Ayesha collection was intricate and attractive, while Feeha Jamshed took black and white to a new level. Misha Lakhani’s styling lacked the wow factor but the clothes themselves were gorgeous.
There were flashes of brilliance from many of the other designers, but often there was a lack of cohesion and editing in their collections. The ramp is an unforgiving platform — the best collections stay true to their inspiration while showing variety and flair.
Unlike others I didn’t have much complaint about the fact that most of the clothes were not wearable. Ramp wear doesn’t really need to be wearable — it’s about showcasing a designer’s vision, craft and creativity. While Khaadi Khaas and Faiza Samee showed very wearable collections, others will no doubt tone down their collections for customers. Maskatiya, for example, will surely produce kameezes from her Aghaaz collection that will appeal more to her core clientele than the peep-shoulder tops would.
However, one major complaint that I had during the four days of fashion week was the lack of time keeping. It was practically midnight before the evening came to a close — every night. It was exhausting even from the comfort of my own home. For models photographers and press on site however it was a grueling four-day marathon.
Oxford-grad Salima Feerasta is a social commentator and lover of style in any form or fashion. She blogs at karachista.blogspot.com and tweets @karachista
Published in The Express Tribune, May 3rd, 2013.                      

PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week Report - Part 2 - A final word on PSFW

$
0
0

Ali Xeeshan invites you to vote with his collection JALSA
So to my final word on PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week (PSFW) – if you aren’t already tired of hearing about it. PSFW has already had quite a lot written about it (a fair amount of it on this blog) and that’s even before the Sunday sections of the major papers have covered it. It even got some international press in the UK’s Daily Telegraph, courtesy of Hilary Alexander a British journalist who became a minor celebrity and sort of mascot at PSFW. I loved the way she got into the spirit of PSFW, wearing local designers and looking at things from a fashion point of view instead of a political one. By all accounts she is also a lot of fun and garnered a lot of people’s affection.
Karma's Gatsby girls having some fun
 Hilary Alexander was one of the personalities of PSFW along with many of the faces of Pakistani fashion and high society but the event was not as exclusive as it might have been. PSFW was apparently horridly congested, especially on the last day, and it seems the crowd wasn’t all it could have been. (Note - this is not a reflection on Lahore; men in Karachi are just as bad if not worse) Bad manners ranged from the mild i.e ogling to the unforgivable i.e groping (eugh) but the funniest example of vulgarity related to give-aways.

A tweeted picture of give-aways by Elan and Sublime

You all know that designers at shows the world-over give goodie bags at Fashion Weeks. Our journos aren’t spoiled by the sort of luxury swag that VIPs at international events get, but giveaways have been getting more elaborate in recent years. This year they ranged from an Imran Khan scarf by Karma’s MK to a Leather Box and scarf by Shehla . The goodie-bags are usually only for those in the coveted front-row, or perhaps the front two rows of the press section. Apparently some of those who didn’t get one decided to help themselves. More than one person reported having a goodie-bag stolen. It could only have been people in the rows behind or nearby, which is actually quite funny when you think about it. It seems that some of the fashion/social crowd isn’t particularly well brought up. Any guilty consciences out there?
Layla Chatoor's gorgeous all-white Finale
Comedy aside, PFDC put on a great show on a grand scale and, for the most part, succeeded. This sort of top-level show challenges designers to be at their best, which is great for creativity and fashion in general. With so many star designers from both Karachi and Lahore, we saw some phenomenal fashion, which will filter right down to small-scale designers and retail chains. 
Glamour, Sana Safinaz-style
 Coming back to the clothes themselves, Day 3 and 4 were perhaps on balance better than the first two days – probably because more star designers were jammed into these final couple of days. Many of them did a wonderful job. Once again in no particular order, here are some of the highlights.
Phenomenal detailing by Layla Chatoor
Layla
  



 Layla Chatoor’s Ayesha collection was beautiful and intricate. She accessorized her outfits with luxurious clutches and belts. Her clothes were typically elaborate but with a sophisticated chic aesthetic. The  balance of the collection wasn’t perfect but she showed great versatility. Her finale consisted of some truly stunning evening gowns, which compared favourably with any at PSFW.

This Sari by Wardha Saleem turned heads
Originality from Wardha Saleem














Wardha Saleem’s Doodle collection was introduced by one of the most enjoyable and amusing videos of PSFW. Her collection showed a unique take on mixing black and white with colour. It was innovative, skilled and showcased Wardha’s versatility as a designer. Apart from that one panelled dress at the end it was a virtuouso display.
Maheen Karim takes a bow with her models
Maheen Karim’s “Paradis” was a confident collection that epitomized laid-back luxe chic. She stuck mainly to the jumpsuits and flowing gowns she does so well, adding interest with some psychedelic digital prints and glitzy ornamentation. It was a breezy rendition of her signature style that was harmonious and elegant.

Karma's pearls galore

Art Deco Chic by Karma
Karma’s Gatsby collection was glitzy, skillful and awfully fun.It was one of the best styled and most cohesive shows of the week. The, roaring twenties inspiration flowed through the silhouettes, embroidery and accessories. The little silver 20’s caps the models wore were adorable while the cigarette holders, fringes and swinging pearls recalled the era perfectly. The mainly black and white palette was very Art Deco and refined. The brightly coloured outfits were less successful but overall it was a captivating though blingy collection.



Rizwan Beyg
Colourful Truck Art by Rizwan Beyg
Rizwan Beyg’s Ranggcollection was a masterful, classy take on Truck Art. Vivid, complex colourful truck art prints were used on everything from glorious thigh length boots to jackets. He used print monochromatic clothes in bright colours so showcase the colourful bags and shoes. However it was his truck art on white that stole the show. Used on jackets, skirts and accessories Rizwan’s signature white brought a new sophistication to truck art. Unfortunately the entire collection is going abroad but Rizwan confirms that he will be taking orders via Facebook soon. I’m going to be first in line.


Sensual Chic by SanaSafinaz
SanaSafinaz showstopper
Sana Safinaz’s show was a masterpiece of Luxury pret. It was one of the few that hit the right balance between cut and embellishment and simply oozed style. A continuation of the collection they showed at FPW, this collection was glitzier, more formal yet effortless. They continued with their themes of lime, black and white florals and but added some very pretty embroidered pants and a lot of oomph.
Faiza Samees hand-made prints



Relaxed Chic
Faiza Sameee
Faiza Sameeshowed a lovely laid back range of separates than was intensely wearable. Wide printed palazzos dominated paired with everything from slouchy sheer tops to jackets. The combination of black and white striped tops with palazzos did put me in mind of my pyjamas but it did look trendy. In general the collection had a young fresh vibe that is very different from Faiza Samee’s Couture.
Wearable pret by Khaadi Khas
Khaddi Khaas was another who showed a relaxed wearable line. I’m totally over flowy silhouettes for daywear but there were plenty of other attractive pieces in the collection that just screamed “buy me”.

HSY
I was expecting a lot from HSY’s Believe show based on past performance. The show itself I felt could have been tighter. The outfits themselves though were textbook HSY. Using a more fitted, shorter silhouette than many and a lovely pastel palette HSY showed a glamourous, sexy yet distinctly Eastern Collection. He is one of the designers that defines modern, sensual Pakistani wear at the more elaborate end of the pret spectrum. It looked spectacular yet somehow effortless – the hallmark of true excellence.


Ali Xeeshan’sinspired and pertinentJalsacollection was gorgeous symphony of white on white. Using sheer fabrics, embroidery and clever embellishment Jalsa was a spectacular collection. It deserved a Finale spot rather than Maria B’s Sunshine on Day 1 which was rather disappointing. The show should perhaps have been toned down just a degree; this had everything from bubbles to umbrellas and was quite long. The clothes were remarkable enough to deserve more of the limelight. I loved the patriotic election theme though and Ali Xeeshan’s interpretation of it was beautiful.


Ali Xeeshan's symphony of white on white was a visual treat

Moshin Ali

The emerging designers segment by Zong showcased six emerging designers and was a mix of the good, the bad and the ugly. What was great to see was the energy and willingness to take risks displayed by these fledgling designers. I should point out here that Nasreen Shaikh’s grand-daughter Mahgul’s debut was surrounded by the sort of hype and hoo-hah that you usually see when a scion of Bollywood “royalty” joins the film industry. It put a lot of pressure on both Mahgul and on the other designers in her segment. I did actually like her collection. I think Nasreen Shaikh is one of Lahore’s most under-rated designers and Mahgul definitley has that certain something about her clothes. It was a clever and artistic debut but she has a long way to go yet. 
Mahgul impresses

Hamza Bukhari
Others I felt who showed promise were Hamza Bukhari and Mohsin Ali. It’s difficult to make a judgement based on so few outfits but I liked what I saw.
The other Mohsin Alicaught my eye for all the wrong reasons. This is someone known for his edginess and originality. The bulk of his collection was interesting but as for his finale – well words fail me. See for yourself. 
Mohsin Ali for Nokia
Overall there was a great variety of talent on show over the four days. There were pieces in most collections that didn’t work and some truly shocking collections but on balance the good outweighed the bad. It would have been better if there had been slightly more on display that was relevant to the local market. We have some great designers who cut western wear very well and are talented and creative. That’s wonderful but we also need more of our top designers to push forward the barriers of modern, Eastern wear. It’s not a question of how revealing clothes are – HSY’s clothes are revealing and yet unapologetically Eastern. It’s always possible to alter ramp outfits to suit the sensibilities of customers, adding sleeves, leggings and the like. What was missing except in a few notable cases was the active effort to update Eastern pret. Apart from that PFDC’s Sunsilk Fashion Week was admirable – a feast of fashion. 

All photos courtesy the fabulous Faisal Farooqui and his team at Dragonfly


Pakistan Election 2013 - The Newbies' Guide to Voting - How to find your polling station and where your vote is registered

$
0
0
Printed in The Express Tribune on 5th May 2013


 Do you plan to vote in the upcoming elections? Elsewhere the question would be “Who do you plan to vote for?” but Pakistan has one of the world’s lowest voter turnouts. That may be about to change. The election is a hot topic of discussion everywhere from dhabas to Twitter.
Facebook is rife with political talk, including engaging videos encouraging people to vote.  Before you dismiss the social media, did you know that the PPP made a government with only 10.2 million votes? There are 8 million Pakistanis on Facebook alone. Bangladesh managed at 87% voter turnout last election in comparison to our 44%. In some areas like posh Clifton/Defence in Karachi the turnout was a mere 30%. This time, however, people from all sectors of society who have never voted before are choosing to so do. And it’s not just men - from workers in beauty salons to ladies who lunch, more women than ever before are planning to vote. 
Tweet by designer Rizwan Beyg

So how easy is it to vote? The Election Commission of Pakistan (ECP) has been publicizing its SMS 8300 service where, for a mere 2 rupees, you text your NIC number to 8300 and receive your voting details. I tried it last week and within 5 minutes had received details of my polling station and two numbers: my serial number and my block code. Unfortunately it seems you need a degree in election-ology to decipher what those two numbers mean.
The SMS didn’t tell me what my constituency is and neither did the ECP website which is a masterpiece of mismanagement. It tells you an awful lot about the election without telling you anything useful. There is no way to use your serial number or block code to work out your constituency. There is a voter education handbook but it gives guidelines for voter education programs instead of offering any useful information for actual voters. The site gives a full list of the candidates and their addresses, but doesn’t tell you which constituency they are running for. In order to find out which party they belong to you have to look at their assigned symbol and go back to a list of 134 symbols to work out which party they are running for. For a newbie like me the party symbol list is confusing as there are so many parties that have similar names. I resort to Google to work out the symbols of the main parties. 

Similarly Google helps me work out that Clifton is in NA-250 and that my candidates include Farooq Sattar for MQM and Dr. Arif Alvi for PTI. This revives my flagging interest after the frustrating search to find my constituency and candidates. (It later turns out that Dr. Farooq Sattar will be contesting NA-249, withdrawing from NA-25 in favour of Khushbakht Shujaat). There remains confusion because the polling station info for my block code on the ECP site is hidden in a .rar file about polling stations. A PTI supporter has since launched a great site called whereismyballot.com where you input your block code and it pulls up the polling station information from the ECP website. Why the ECP couldn’t have made things this easy is anyone’s guess.
I intend to make the attempt to vote. At the last election in 2008, the winning margin for NA-250 was less than 8,000 votes. Only one third of the 350,000 registered voters cast their vote.
But will the election be fair?
Stories of poll rigging abound from previous elections:
“Yes ma’am, I went to vote but when they gave me the ballot paper they stood over me and watched to make sure I voted for their party.”
 “I was too late to vote. No, the polls hadn’t closed but when they checked my NIC they said I’d already been to vote earlier. It looks like someone had voted for me”
Another complained that when his thumb was inked they took his thumb and stamped his vote before handing him the paper. These and other abuses are undoubtedly rife. Doctors from national hospitals who are among those required to invigilate have confirmed that they have been told by party workers to look the other way at polling stations.
It’s naïve to think that vote rigging doesn’t go on. However with the vested parties watching each other and with increased power and scrutiny by the media there is hope that things will improve. Those who have never voted or attempted to vote cannot bemoan the situation when they have never made the least push to put things right. By not turning out to vote we make things easier for those who rig elections. The only way to change a system is from within.
 

Aamna Aqeel - is the Pakistani designer's controversial fashion shootracist, bigoted, self serving or merely misguided?

$
0
0

Aamna Aqeel racist photoshoot
Aamna Aqeel vehemently denied allegations of racism
KARACHI: It’s not easy producing a memorable fashion shoot; pictures of pretty women wearing pretty clothes can get boring fast. The best fashion shoots are engaging, compelling and imaginative; they require talent, hard work and vision from the designer, stylist, photographer and model. Of course, if you can’t manage all of that, the other way to ensure you get noticed is to make a fashion shoot so controversial and tasteless that getting media attention is guaranteed.

Designer Aamna Aqeel’s latest shoot titled “Be My Slave” falls squarely into this category. Obviously designed to shock, it shows a model being pandered to by a dark-skinned child slave. The images are repulsive with racist and colonialist overtones. The fact that the slave in the advertisements is a child, makes the images that much more inexcusable.

Aqeel has barely been designing for two years. She won some critical acclaim at the fifth edition of Fashion Pakistan Week held recently in Karachi, but she remains very much an emerging designer with a lot to prove. It seems that she’s decided, by hook or by crook, it’s time to get noticed.


Vogue's controversial shoot from December 2011 - Photo Express file photo

Fashion loves to be provocative and sometimes it seems nothing is taboo. French Vogue did a shoot with sexualised images of models as young as 10, Vogue India did a feature with impoverished Indians carrying Burberry umbrellas and wearing $100 Fendi bibs. A Bulgarian magazine 12 did a shoot called “Victim of Beauty” showing bloodied, bruised models that appeared to glamourise domestic violence.

In each case, the magazines had an explanation to give, that they were trying to highlight the use of child models, or attempting to say fashion was for everyone or trying to show the juxtaposition between horror flick make-up and beauty. In each case, the real reason was simple: commissioning distasteful fashion shoots to ensure media coverage and boost sales.
Aamna Aqeel's racist photoshoot
The shoot in no way conveys Aqeel's purported anti-child-labour stance


When contacted, Aqeel vehemently denied any racist angle to the shoot at all. According to her, the choice of a dark-skinned Baloch child was purely incidental. “He works in a garage and wanted some work,” she said. Obviously the parents of usual child models wouldn’t have agreed to the shoot. The pampered little cuties who advertise soap, toothpaste and biscuits on TV may not have looked right for the part but even if they had, no one would have let their child play such a degrading role.
Aqeel’s argument is that she wanted to spark a debate on child labour. She says she is involved with a children’s charity and wanted to highlight how ‘society madams’ employ child labour in their homes. She is educating and supporting the child used in the shoot — it seems the least she can do after exploiting him in this fashion.

It’s facetious of the designer to claim that she was trying to stimulate a debate on child labour. The model wearing her clothes is clearly comfortable with her dominant position. She is not made up in a way that shows her to be the villain of the piece. The use of a dark skinned child in a shoot entitled “Be My Slave” certainly reeks of racism, however much the designer may deny it. And if anything, the shoot seems to condone child labour.

Aqeel went on to deny that this was a publicity-seeking move on her part and says she is happy at the pace her brand is developing. Her purpose for this shoot was apparently not to publicise her brand, but to raise public awareness of a social issue. Apparently, she feels so blessed with her success that she wants to give back to society and feels that it’s every individual’s duty to do what he or she can to make life better for the underprivileged.
The shoot was entitled "Be My Slave" for Aamna Aqeel
The shoot was entitled "Be My Slave"

To me, Aqeel’s stance stinks of hypocrisy. Designers do fashion shoots to sell a vision of their brand and to raise their profile. I wonder at the magazine that published the pictures. The stylist and photographer may have had to bend to the designer’s vision but the magazine had no such compulsion. I feel ashamed to be involuntarily publicising the shoot but we need to speak up against vile images of racism and exploitation. There are some taboos fashion shouldn’t break.

Except where stated otherwise photos by Shabaz Shazi for Aamna Aqeel

Polling Day Pakistan Election 2013 - PTI, MQM and PML-N tussle among allegations of rigging - Voting feels like a Victory

$
0
0

--> -->

My hard-won inked thumb
Election Day was one of those “I was there” moments that only happen a handful of times in a person’s lifetime. It was an inspiring, frustrating, tiring and disheartening day for many new voters. There were highs, particularly where voting went smoothly but, especially in Karachi, there were many, many lows.

All day Sunday magazine posted pics of celebs like Umair Tabani voting on its Facebook page

This is the one election I have experienced where most of the people I know have turned out to vote. Experiences varied widely. Friends and family in Lahore were done in around half an hour on average. A few lucky voters in Karachi also reported short queues. At Bath Island polling station no one took longer than 45 minutes to vote although funnily enough there was a "shortage" of ballots boxes so votes for both the National and Provincial Assemblies had to be posted in one box. 
These voters in Phase IV Defence Karachi never got to vote

The rest of Clifton and Defence was another story altogether. NA-250 was notorious because ballot papers arrived late all over the constituency and in some polling stations voting never got underway. Friends reported waiting up to 11 hours to be able to vote. Those who managed to vote in a mere three or four hours felt lucky. Nevertheless, apart from those who polling stations never opened, people were generally psyched to be voting. All day my whatsapped pinged with pictures of inked thumbs and smiling faces. 
Happy to have voted

I was at polling station 70 in NA-250. At my polling station, voting started about an hour late after voters in line requested Rangers to make them open up. When I arrived at 10:30 there were perhaps 100 women in line before the gate, and lots more inside. Men were allowed in five or ten at a time and emerged every 20 minutes. Only one woman on average emerged every 20 minutes. Those inside complained that the women presiding officers (from Landi) were purposely going slow. It took till 1:30 to get to the gate. 
This was the small line at 10:30 am. It would be 6 pm before these women could vote

There was great camaraderie in the line. We were all determined to vote and overwhelmingly it seemed for Imran Khan. There were plenty of cricket shirts and Imran Khan scarves on display. People of all parties were helping each other, distributing water, letting seniors go in front and generally there was an atmosphere of hope. People bought each other ice-creams, juice and biscuits. The owner of Anjarwala Bakery who was in line like the rest of us sent sandwiches, tarts and samosas. We joked that this was just like being on a picnic: heat, sunburn and all.
Sandwiches for hungry voters who'd been waiting 5 hours on average by this point'
Eventually (after waiting 3 hours in the sun) we were allowed inside the polling station. It would be a further 4 and a half hours before we left. Things were very disorganized and, whereas the men officers were rapidly processing, there was chaos on the women’s side. Some voters in front took the initiative and sorted the lines into block codes and stood in front of the desk helping to get things moving faster. Most people had been there since 9 or 10 am and tempers ran high. I joined the volunteers as did many of my friends at other stations. Reorganizing the lines led to such a revolt, as people at the back pushed forward, that the returning officer confiscated the ballot papers for half an hour. 
Eventually people sat on the floor of the polling station while they waited
With volunteers helping suddenly the presiding officers were processing about a voter a minute. But by this time people were fed up. They even protested against seniors cutting the line. Earlier in the day, the two people who had pushed into the queue were boo-ed out of the polling station and people patiently waited their turn. After six hours a few late-comer queue-pushers ruined the discipline of the entire line. So much for a new Pakistan.
Tempers flare in the polling station
While I was volunteering I can confirm the presiding officers were going as fast as they could. I really don’t know about earlier though there were rumours that around 3 pm they got a call saying they could speed up now. Who knows? I do know that everyone who queued at that small polling station was allowed to vote and there was no coercion. After 8 pm those still queuing outside were taken into the polling station so they could stamp their ballots. I know not a single voter was turned away.  I also know that the vote was for overwhelmingly for PTI. 
This guy arrived with massive security- armed guards, the works - and proceeded to distribute water to voters.
 Despite the long uncomfortable wait, being able to vote felt like a victory. Despite the heat and my physical exhaustion I was happy. So were all those who had come to vote. The young, the old, the infirm and the pregnant who had all endured hours of standing in almost unbearable heat just to vote. Which was why seeing the reports of rigging on reaching home was so heartbreaking. I didn’t queue for seven and a half hours to have my vote thrown away.

Messages and videos like this showing rigging are all over Facebook- veracity unknown
There are pictures, videos and stories of rigging all over the social media. Papers being forcibly stamped, gunmen in polling stations forcing people to vote for their party, torn ballot papers, missing ballot boxes and pictures of ballot boxes ripped apart. At least one PML-N candidate in Lahore and some MQM workers in Karachi were caught red-handed.


One voter's first hand experience of rigging - I have removed her name to protect her privacy

Late last night results started coming in. Nabeel Gabol of the MQM got 170,000 votes. I know the MQM traditionally polls over 100,000 votes in that constituency. However, having personally been at a polling station in another constituency that took 3 hours to process the votes of about 50 women, this seems both incredible and unfair.
I never expected Imran Khan to win. I know that for the most part people will vote for those who make their own lives better. For those who fix their roads and make sure they have electricity and who are visibly working for them. The PTI just doesn’t have that sort of grass roots network even now, though they have made huge gains in that respect.
Nawaz Sharif seems to have won
I expected a PML_N win. I knew people like my driver who has always voted PML-N would not change their mind. However I wanted my vote to stand as a protest against what is happening in this country. I feel robbed of that by the rigging. I was not sure I would vote for Imran Khan till a few days ago. I do not agree with everything he says. The MQM actually made some valid points and Mustafa Kamal was a great Mayor of Karachi. However yesterday’s antics by the MQM really made me angry. I hold the ECP responsible for the majority of the problems in NA-250 but the pictures and testimony of rigging in various polling stations is unforgiveable. Call me naïve, but I expect more from a party before I vote for them. 

As far as Lahore goes, I may have voted PML-N too if I had been suffering 16 hours of load shedding a day. The Sharif brothers have made Lahore into a model city and people will look to them after suffering for five years under the current government. Why they had to get involved in blatant rigging is beyond me. It does remind me, however, of the number of scandals the Sharifs have been involved in.
Happy voters from Sunday Magazine's Facebook page
This is still a victory for Imran Khan. Although the official results are not in, he looks to have won a respectable number of seats though nothing like the tsunami predicted. He has gone from nowhere to credibility in a short time. He has inspired thousands of us to vote and reminded us that in terms of fairness Pakistan still has a long way to go. But be warned Captain-saab, we will be watching what you do with the mandate you have been given. We have been told to suspect your policies towards minorities and women, yet have given you the benefit of the doubt. Please don’t shake our faith in you.

Pakistani Women take charge - Socialite Entrepreneurs boost the Economy

$
0
0
Published in the Express Tribune on May 19th
Fashion tycoon Sana Hashwani with Nausheen "Pepsi" Leghari - owner of Links School

Designer Khadija Shah with the editors of Paper magazine
There was a time when the only work socialites did was light charity fundraising – organising expensive balls for their chums or sweet-talking friends and family into donating. Not anymore. High society designers like SanaSafinaz are now an economic force to be reckoned with, employing thousands of workers, with sales running into millions of rupees.
The list of what top fashion journalists have termed “socialite designers” reads like a who’s who of both fashion and society. From Khadijah Shah to newcomers like Misha Lakhani, many of fashion’s elite are “it-girls” who certainly don’t need to work and yet have built professional, thriving businesses. Many society women, such as Nadia and Ayesha Ellahi, design on a smaller scale; to the extent where it now seems there is a “designer” in every family.
However, socialite entrepreneurs haven’t limited themselves to just designing clothes. They are running furniture shops, salons, bakeries, shoe shops, gyms and more. Many start out in a small way, holding exhibitions for friends and family. For some, this is as far as they go, finding small-scale exhibitions the perfect vehicle for a work-life balance. Others, however, use exhibitions as a springboard to a more professional approach selling online or even opening an outlet.


Many of these fledgling businesses benefit from their owner’s social connections but at the end of the day, only viable business models prosper. There are plenty of success stories. SanaSafinaz themselves, along with The House of Zunn, have diversified into furniture. They join Maham Malik of Baroque and Saira Chapra of Charcoal in the ranks of socialite furniture houses. Together they have brought contemporary chic to Pakistani interior design, reminiscent of the aesthetics of Ralph Lauren and Christy. The social elite has bought from them in droves, and drawing room by drawing room, Pakistani interiors have seen a revolution.
Baroque Furniture is exported to Dubai and Canada
 It seems like upper class women have ventured into making just about everything that other women buy. From fancy birth announcements to jewellery, there’s a socialite with a thriving business. They are running schools and tuition centres, event planning companies and public relations firms. Some of Pakistan’s favourite restaurants are run by socialites, and they produce decorative accessories by the truckload.

Part of this desire to produce or sell beautiful things is demand led. Women become frustrated at not being able to buy the sort of things they themselves wish to use. “There isn’t a decent gym in my area? Maybe I should start one!” or “I want the sort of jewelery you see in auction catalogues – perhaps I can train a kaarigar to make some?”
Sharmeen Obaid Chinoy's sisters run her father's factory. Maheen Karim has been nominated for a Lux Style Award

The other reason is boredom. Many upper class women are highly educated (every family wants a “pari-likhi” bahu) and want to do more with their lives than rounds of coffee mornings and kitty parties. Traditionally, women are kept out of family businesses. Men folk don’t want their sisters and wives complicating already complex family business structures yet families don’t want them “going out to work”. Thankfully, there are beginning to be exceptions  like Sharmeen Obaid Chinoy and her sisters running their father’s factory or Iqra Mansha heading up Nishat Hotels. For the most part though, women end up starting their own businesses. You can pace your business to suit your family life and expand at a time that works with your child-rearing and other family responsibilities. The reason socialites have excelled in this area is they have men folk liberal enough to encourage them and they have the resources to invest in their businesses. That, and also the fact that it’s become fashionable to be an entrepreneur.
Mehrbano Sethi is the driving force behind Luscious Cosmetics

It’s important to note that although the target market of these women-led businesses is mainly other women, this doesn’t mean that the money goes round and round their exclusive social circles. Most of these businesses employ a significant number of people and once past the fledgling stage, move to a wider market base. Kitchen Cuisine Bakery, Luscious Cosmetics and Beaconhouse School are all the brainchildren of women who could be termed socialites. Perhaps we shouldn’t belittle them and the likes of SanaSafinaz by referring to them as socialites. Make no mistake, these are smart and savvy women. In these humdrum economic times, women entrepreneurs are among the few that are investing and creating jobs. We should salute them.

Top Pakistani fashion designers in inspiration-imitation controversy.

$
0
0
Published in the Express Tribune on May 24th 2013
                                                  Karma's jacket is heavily inspired by Balmain                     pic: aamiriat.wordpress.com
He’s done it again. Copycat-spotting blogger Aamir Bukhari has come up with a new set of inspirations and imitations by Pakistani designers, but this time, it’s from the runway. His blog aamiriat.wordpress.com has now put top designers Karma and Elan in the firing line, amongst others.

Aamir certainly has an eye for spotting similarities. He broke the story of one of SanaSafinaz’s 2013 lawn designs being inspired by a pair of Zara pants. He also reported SanaSafinaz’s use of a Pucci print, Gul Ahmed’s homage to vintage YSL and many more. It’s a talent to be able to spot close copies from amongst the hundreds of fashion images out there, and Aamir is particularly good at it. His latest blog entry is startling. For example, it seems some of Karma’s smash-hit Gatsby collection shows staggering similarities to Balmain’s fall 2012 collection.

Tabassum Moghul's crowns look very D&G    pic: aamiriat.wordpress.com

Aamna Aqeel seems to have been similarly inspired by Balmain for some shorts in her SS2013 collection. Ali Xeeshan and Tabassum Mughal also make his “Hall of Shame” but their crimes seem to be more about copying styling rather than actual design similarities. Xeeshan uses an umbrella in the same way as Reema Acra while Mughal’s crowns are just like the ones used by Dolce & Gabbana.

Elan is called to book for using a painting of Mount Fuji that is ascribed to both Joel Edwards and “Trinifellah”. It’s not clear from the blog that Elan has merely used a picture and not plagiarised an outfit. This, I think is unfair as the implication of copying an outfit is a far graver accusation. In fact, a quick Google search reveals this painting is being used on many sites, often without any picture credit.
Pic courtesy: Express Tribune

“I never made any secret of the fact that I used images from a variety of sources for my prints. In fact, I printed every picture I used in my press release,” says Khadijah Shah of Elan. “Many of these were ancient pictures and with pictures like this one that were posted in many locations, there was little way to authenticate ownership of the image.” She went on to reveal that whenever she used images of known artists, such as Saeed Akhtar for her first collection, she was always careful to get prior permission. With oriental images of dubious ownership plucked off the net, she neither felt this was possible nor necessary.



Pic courtesy: Express Tribune

Batur’s Givenchy-inspired outfit is more along the lines of Karma’s outfit — too close of a copy for comfort. While not all of Aamir’s picks are in the same league in terms of “inspiration”, there is a clear pattern. There’s also a rumour that another top designer’s showstopper at PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week was heavily inspired by Balenciaga but with no pictorial evidence available, it seems unfair to name names.

So, are some Pakistani designers crossing the line? Are they compensating for a lack of originality by appropriating other people’s designs? Well, some Pakistani designers may be “inspired” by other designers, but this isn’t a Pakistani problem. It happens all over the world and blogs like Aamiriat have made it easier for such cases to come to light. For example, the Tumblr blog called “Balenciaga did it first” is devoted to highlighting instances where other designers do looks that Balenciaga has previously done.
                                                                               Balenciaga did it first                                   pic: Fashionista.com

Call it inspiration or imitation, designers copy each other all the time — that’s how trends are born. A dozen different designers don’t spontaneously come up with the same idea — it’s an organic process. Sometimes trends are inspired by pop culture, hit TV shows, films and the like. More often, one person makes something truly original, unusual or aesthetically pleasing and others are inspired to do their own versions. These variations gradually filter down to the high street (or darzis, in the case of Pakistan) and suddenly everyone is wearing jumpsuits or chooridars or whatever.

Blatant exact copying is a separate yet genuine problem, with entire websites and production houses devoted to churning out replicas. That is an issue that needs to be dealt with severely as replica merchants are genuinely stealing intellectual property.

Although a couple of the designs highlighted by Aamir, particularly the Balmain-inspired ones, did sail very close to the wind, none are truly replicas. Is it right for designers to be getting critical acclaim for something that is not truly and entirely theirs? Probably not. But genuine originality is rare and as long as people put their own twist on an idea they copy, fashion has no problem with the concept. However, it’s important to point out that those who merely emulate can never hope to compete with those who really create. A unique signature is crucial and designers would do well to remember this.

Yogen Fruz opens on Zamzama in Karachi

$
0
0
-->

Scrummy Yogenfruz yogurt
Yogenfruz comes to Karachi
We already have Tutti Frutti and Snog – does Karachi need yet another frozen yoghurt franchise? Well Yogen Fruz is not your average frozen yoghurt joint. 
Toppings at yogenfruz karachi
Toppings galore!
Though their range of toppings and self-serve yoghurt is sensational, that’s not what sets Yogen Fruz apart.
Their unique mix-it range mixes plain yoghurt with flash-frozen fruits for a fresh fruity hit that is simply scrumptious. I tried strawberry/banana while my sons opted for blueberry/blackberry/strawberry. Both were delicious. 
Flash frozen fruit at Yogenfruz karachi

service counter at yogenfruz karachi
Yogenfruz Zamzama, Karachi







 I’m not a great fan of the self-serve yoghurts at any franchise but this “mix it “ range is on another level altogether. The flash-frozen fruits are as good as fresh fruit and the range includes fruits we don't usually get in Pakistan eg blackberries. The perfect fruity treat to beat the summer heat. 

Viewing all 413 articles
Browse latest View live